Panerai’s Grande Complications: The Technical Finesse of The Italians
When people think of “Panerai”, they most certainly associate it with Italian flair and the Submersible – the characteristic diver’s watch with the crown protection bridge. But Panerai does Grande complications too. We present some highlights from the tinkerers in Neuchâtel.
Perpetual Calendar PAM0715
With the Luminor Perpetual Calendar, Officine Panerai offers a perpetual calendar that focuses on the most important information. Accordingly, only the day and date appear on the front. However, the Italian lettering “Calendario Perpetuo” reveals the complexity inside. The other displays are found on the back. The sapphire crystal back presents the month, leap year and even a digital year display.
The case measures 44 mm and has the classic cushion-shaped design. It is made of either the company’s own Platinumtech or Goldtech alloys. The dial, designed for clarity and simplicity, presents the essential elements – hours, minutes, day and date. There is a GMT hand that offers an additional time zone. The small seconds also serves as a day/night indicator.
The movement, manufactured by Panerai in Neuchatel, is self-winding thanks to a micro-rotor. Two barrels provide a power reserve of 72 hours. The fact that the day, date, month and leap year can be adjusted without tools or pushers simply by turning the crown is a further proof of the watchmakers’ expertise. This is even possible at the end of the month and at midnight.
The complication is available in the Luminor Calendario Perpetuo Goldtech (PAM0742) and Platinumtech (PAM0715) versions. There is also a variant with a transparent dial (PAM01269).
Minute Repeater PAM00600
The PAM00600 is for lovers of acoustic watch enjoyment. The Panerai complication features a double minute repeater that indicates the hours and minutes for two different time zones as a sequence of tones. The watchmakers install three gongs and three hammers for this purpose. The repeater can be set to local or home time using a pusher in the crown and can also be triggered manually.
The skeletonized dial features a 24-hour display at 3 o’clock and small seconds at 9 o’clock. There is also a GMT hand for an additional time zone. The P.2005/MR movement integrates two barrels and offers a power reserve of 96 hours. A display on the back shows the remaining power reserve in days. The in-house tourbillon system with vertical rotation is also included.
Equation of Time PAM00920
The Panerai L’Astronomo, the Italian company’s technical flagship, is a tribute to Galileo Galilei. The inventor of the telescope is known for his discoveries in astronomy. Accordingly, the Luminor 1950 Tourbillon Moon Phases Equation of Time GMT 50 mm offers a wealth of celestial complications. The focus is on the equation of time: it indicates the difference between the actual time (solar time) and the generally accepted time.
The skeletonized front features the equation of time and the sunrise and sunset display. Also included are the month, polarized date and small seconds. As if that wasn’t enough, Panerai has also added a GMT hand. On the back, an artistic moon phase with 24-hour display awaits the wearer.
The case measures 50 mm to allow room for the mechanics. There is a choice of four case versions: titanium, titanium DLC, Goldtech and white gold. There is also a range of four different hand types to choose from.
The P.2005/GLS caliber also integrates a tourbillon that rotates the balance wheel perpendicular to its axis rather than around it. In addition, it only needs 30 seconds to rotate instead of the usual 60 seconds. Despite all the wealth of functions, the movement offers a power reserve of 4 days, which is visible on the back.
The Panerai complication offers a water resistance of 10 bar or 100 meters. The watch is only produced on customer request and personalized according to the coordinates of a selected location.
The twin-spired cathedral bells chime over the square by Cologne's main square. The warm scent of bakeries wafts across the space as commuters dash past, fixated upon catching their train from the adjacent central station. Locals sprawl themselves across the steps leading up to the Gothic cathedral, incidentally Germany's most visited landmark, while businessmen stride…
The Master Ultra Thin collection is Jaeger-LeCoultre's answer to a modern dress watch, in which the ultra-thin movement always takes centre stage alongside the elegant aesthetics. This year at Watches & Wonders 2024, the watchmaker is presenting three new variations of the Master Ultra Thin Perpetual Calendar - with a revised case and dial design…
Blancpain is introducing a third timepiece to celebrate the 70th anniversary of the Fifty Fathoms this year. Limited to 555 pieces, the Fifty Fathoms 70th Anniversary Act 3 pays homage to the MIL-SPEC used by the US Navy. Developed under the leadership of Blancpain's then Co-Director General and avid diver Jean-Jacques Fichter, Blancpain's original Fifty…
TUDOR presents a new variant of the Pelagos that does not have a date. The TUDOR Pelagos FXD was created in cooperation with a special unit of the French Navy and has some new function-forward features. The case is milled from a single block of titanium, which is supposed to benefit stability. The strap bars…
Rolex is unveiling the new Oyster Perpetual Rolex Deepsea Ref. M126660. It features a 44 mm case with redesigned lugs and sides and a broader 'Oyster' bracelet, as well as an adapted 'Oysterlock' folding safety clasp. This professional divers’ watch is equipped with calibre 3235, which is typical for Rolex watchmaking. The new Rolex Deepsea is made of 'Oystersteel'…
When it comes to timepieces, craftsmanship and art are aligned. When it comes to MB&F, these two have masterfully merged. As the world's first watchmaking concept laboratory, the brand has made a name for itself with its artistic timepieces, so-called "Horological Machines". Ten years ago, MB&F started a collection inspired by automobiles, and it was…
Jaeger-LeCoultre has unveiled a new version of the Reverso Tribute Chronograph, featuring a pink gold case. Key design elements include a solid pink gold dial with a new decorative finish and an open-worked reverse side showcasing the intricacies of the chronograph mechanism. Powered by the newly developed Calibre 860, this watch also pays homage to…
To mark the 160th anniversary since the foundation of its manufacture back in 1860, TAG Heuer is introducing the TAG Heuer Carrera 160 Years Montreal Limited Edition. The limited edition is inspired by the 1972 White Heuer Montreal model, and 1000 pieces are available. In January, TAG Heuer introduced the TAG Heuer Carrera 160 Years…
Audemars Piguet is introducing the Royal Oak Offshore Flying Tourbillon Flyback-Chronograph into its recently updated Offshore collection. The watch combines a flyback chronograph with a flying tourbillon. Furthermore, it is a limited edition of only 100 pieces. Revised case The case of the new model is titanium, and measures 43 mm in diameter. Interestingly, to…
The new Code 11.59 Tourbillon Openworked is a watch requires a second, closer look to appreciate all of its various elements and features. The model showcases a modern bicolour design and combines an electric-blue finish with rose-gold details that make the carefully crafted open-worked movement shine brightly, highlighting all of the details. Several new releases…
Breguet is introducing a new Tradition Automatique Seconde Rétrograde 7097, this time with a blue dial. The wristwatch takes its inspiration from Abraham-Louis Breguet's subscription watches from the late 18th century, and also evokes Breguet's one-hand pocket watches of the time. The new edition, as with all Tradition models, showcases the calibre's components via the…
In addition to the new Tank Normale introduced into Cartier's Privé series for collectors, the maison is also offering a number of new mechanical Tank watches for the general public. This includes the introduction of two Américaine models, alongside four Louis Cartier timepieces with distinctive and colourful dials. Tank Américaine Drawing inspiration from the original…
As the leaves turn brown and fall from the trees, many are bidding summer goodbye – but Richard Mille's new 07-01 Coloured Ceramics models are not amongst them. Under the vibrant parasol of its 'Endless Summer' campaign, the brand is introducing three dreamy new pastel-coloured watches for women. The watches draw inspiration from 1980s style,…