Before considering the best green dial watches of 2024 thus far, let’s start with some context. Historians have long defined different eras through time frames containing common characteristics. In the watch world, to give an obvious example, you could say that the pocket watch era spanned from the 16th to 20th century. Meanwhile, the birth of the steel sports watch era began around 50 years ago, with the introduction of Audemars Piguet’s Royal Oak in 1972.
Then there are the more specific categories within an era, for example the long reign of wristwatches with blue dials, which have proved vastly popular amongst discerning men for several decades – not least thanks to their versatility, timeless appeal, and ability to capture the light.
Most would argue that we entered the ‘green dial’ epoch back in 2021 when, by royal decree of the house of Patek Philippe, we first laid eyes on the 5711/1A-014 Nautilus in olive green. A whirlwind of green dial watches followed its lead. Many watch manufactures began to come up with their own distinctive tones, from Breitling’s ‘pistachio green’ first seen on the stunning Premier, to Jaeger-LeCoultre’s ‘Pine Green’ Reverso Tribute Small Seconds debut, evoking the Jura valley that surrounds the horology house.
This year’s Watches & Wonders provided another opportunity for various watch manufactures to flaunt their latest creations shining in an array of verdant green hues. We took the liberty of gathering some of our favourite green dial watches to take their place in the never-ending timeline of horological trends.
It would feel wrong to commence with anything other than the Vacheron Constantin Overseas models. Making a debut with brand new ‘olive green’ dials, the three new watches come in the form of a chronograph, dual time, and date in two sizes, with the latter including a diamond-clad bezel option. Most importantly, though, is the fact that Vacheron’s Style and Heritage Director, Christian Selmoni, has said that ‘it could well be that this new colour will become as iconic as blue within the collection’. So far, we’ve only seen the new dial colour in combination with pink gold – meaning it’s rather interesting to visualise how a white-gold model might match to the new hue.
In any case, the olive-green dial colour, Selmoni explains, ‘acts as a revealer, enhancing the brilliance of the gold while ensuring exceptional legibility of the watch’s functions.’ The new hue marks the introduction of a fifth staple colour within the collection, alongside the pre-existing black, silver, pinkish beige and, of course, emblematic blue.
The Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon Honeygold ‘Lumen’ marks the 25th anniversary of the Datograph, a chronograph that has not only shaped the brand, but the entire watch industry. At first glance in broad daylight, you might well ask how exactly you’re supposed to spot the ‘green’ part of this watch’s sapphire crystal dial – which, by the way, also reveals the incredible inner workings of the watch’s perpetual calendar, chronograph and tourbillon.
Yet a quick shine of a torch reveals exactly where this wristwatch gets its ‘Lumen’ name. The entire watch lights up in green, as both the large date, subdial counters, hour and minute hands are all coated with luminescence. This Honeygold Datograph marks the sixth model in the ‘Lumen’ series, which celebrated its premiere in 2013 with a variant of the large Lange 1. Proving popular with collectors ever since, this latest creation is a limited edition of 50 pieces.
While all of the maison’s products tend to go down a storm at every annual Watches & Wonders fair, we saw a particularly dashing dose of olive-green appeal over at Cartier. A new addition made its debut in the Santos-Dumont collection, coming in a platinum case with matching ruby cabochon.
The combination of a green dial, green lacquer bezel, and green alligator strap is really an aesthetic celebration of the collection’s debonair new colour tone. What’s more, platinum models are always coveted pieces amongst collectors, with this particular model being a limited piece of only 200 pieces.
Meanwhile, you can always count on Chopard’s high-end L.U.C collection to create something truly beautiful. This year, we can look to the new L.U.C. XPS Forest Green, which comes in a 40 mm Lucent steel case and encapsulates the beauty of simplicity.
Interestingly, this watch quietly integrates a ‘sector-type dial’. Particularly popular in the 1930s, sector-type dials feature two concentric rings – one for the minutes and another for the hours. The hour and minute markers are generally radial lines, running between the inner and outer edges of the rings and thus creating the ‘sectors’. Coming on a hand-sewn brown calfskin leather strap with ecru stitching, the L.U.C XPS Forest Green makes for a wonderfully classic timepiece.
At this year’s fair, Frederique Constant took the opportunity to draw attention to its flagship collection. Alongside three new date models, FC also introduced three new-generation Classic Moonphase Date Manufacture editions – one of which showcases a bold new ‘atypical English green’ dial, to quote the brand. In its ongoing resolve to elevate the luxury brand’s standing within the industry, the latest Classic models are more refined than ever. This includes a wise decision to reduce the elegant watch to a 40 mm (rather than the former 42 mm) diameter, as well as a new dial with no numerals, but rather refined diamond-cut hour markers and a chemin de fer minute track.
Additionally, the movement has been upgraded from a former 38-hour power-reserve movement to the calibre FC-706, guaranteeing three days of autonomy. Frederique Constant’s watchmakers add a new finish to the bridges, which are now in a different formation that can accommodate the new large-capacity barrel. Decoration includes circular graining, perlage, and fan-shaped Côtes de Genève. This replaces the previously circular motifs – and once again indicates the manufacture’s ambition to make its way up in the watch world.
Returning to the realm of modernism, Hublot recently brought out the new Big Bang Unico Dark Green Ceramic. This green hue is rather different to the pieces we’ve looked at so far, as it has a notably dark green tone. The dark green dominates the intricate open-worked dial, on which Hublot meticulously integrate a fusion of baton and Arabic hour markers, matching to the case’s deep verdant shade.
The skeletonised hour and minute hands, along with the chronograph functions, leave room to admire the exposed movement below. Notably, the date window at 3 o’clock unveils the entire blackened date plate, gradually unveiling each passing day as it traverses the rather shadowy dial.
These days, Tudor and its adjoining Kenissi movement manufacture never fail to impress with their hardy yet handsome tool watches. Perfectly encapsulating this description: the new Tudor Black Bay 58 in yellow gold with an open caseback and, excitingly, a yellow-gold bracelet. Previously, only a leather or NATO strap was available.
Featuring an adventurous green dial accentuated nicely by a matching bezel, the colour combination works excellently with the precious material case, while simultaneously making sure not to stray too far from the design DNA of the Black Bay 58. Whether it truly ‘looks’ like a diver’s watch is another question – but we’re certainly voting in favour of this rather charismatic new edition.
At this year’s Watches & Wonders, horology house Oris found an opportune moment to relaunch its popular Aquis watches with several updates. The new generation of Oris’ diver’s watches are alleged to be more wearable and more stylish – and this is achieved primarily through reworked lugs and more resilient crown protectors.
Powering the first three watches of the new generation is the highly respected calibre 400 with a phenomenal 5-day power reserve. Alongside a refined new bracelet, the latest sunray-finished green dial Aquis also comes with a matching green rubber strap that brings the lively sports watch to life like no other.
Collector favourite Parmigiani Fleurier have christened the dial colour of their extraordinarily well-received Toric Petite Seconde Platinum as ‘grey celadon’. This is a rather apt description of the unusual matcha-like shade, which takes its inspiration from ceramic wares glazed in a jade green celadon colour. Also known as ‘greenware’, Parmigiani tone down the green hue by adding in a grey tone – hence ‘grey celadon’.
It is also worth mentioning the alligator strap with a Nubuck finish, which, in terms of quality, is pretty much unrivalled across the luxury watch market. In addition, this stunning new piece houses the manufacture’s new all-gold movement with its rather modernist design, smoothly bridging the gap between classical watchmaking, dress watch design codes, and contemporary tastes. A very sophisticated piece – and a testimony to how innovatively a single colour palette can be approached.
UK-based watch brand Bremont heavily focuses on producing the most capable tool watches, but with a contemporary, à la mode touch. The brand just introduced its new Terra Nova field watches, which take inspiration from military pocket watches of the early 20th century. We all know Davide Cerrato, who is now the CEO of the brand, and his archaeological way of deep-diving into archives of historical timepieces.
There is a rather striking green dial watch in the Terra Nova 40.5 Date range that not only fits perfectly to the military theme, but also to this story. It sports a 40.5 mm cushion case made of 904L stainless steel with tapered lugs, oversized numerals in powerful full-block Super-LumiNova, an oversized crown, a railway minute track, and faceted pencil hands. The timepiece is available with a steel bracelet, leather strap, or NATO strap that has been woven on 18th century Jacquard French looms. Let’s just say these are all pretty good ingredients for a rugged but elegant tool watch. By the way, the movements come from Sellita in Switzerland and are modified in-house in Great Britain.
Finally on our list of the best green dial watches of 2024, we have a wristwatch from up-and-coming brand Norqain. Housed in an inclusive 40 mm case, this sporty steel timepiece features a ‘pistachio green’ dial that Norqain combine with contrasting black subdial counters.
Comprising a part of the brand’s Freedom collection, the watch takes inspiration from the great outdoors, while the vintage-inspired design elements, including the distinctive pistachio-coloured dial, evoke the aesthetics of the 1960s. Norqain also make space for a subtly integrated date window between 4 and 5 o’clock. While the watch is available with a steel bracelet, there’s also the option of a very attractive ivory-coloured linen strap, which makes for the perfect spring/summer look.
