Rolex’s ever-popular Oyster Perpetual GMT-Master II is enjoying an update at this year’s Watches and Wonders fair, with two new editions joining the collection. The two Oystersteel novelties feature a 24-hour graduated two-colour Cerachrom bezel insert in grey and black ceramic, a feature we saw for the first time only last year. The only difference between them: one of the new models comes with an Oyster bracelet, while the second sports a handsome Jubilee bracelet.
Below The Radar: The Design
The visual design of these two models really allow for the line’s DNA to speak for itself. There are no bright colours, aside from the triangle-tipped 24-hour hand and ‘GMT MASTER II’ wording. This decision enables each and every element of the iconic watch’s design to speak for itself.
As many will know, the timepiece is the successor to the GMT-Master, aka the original model launched in 1955. The GMT-Master II was launched in 1982, offering up a movement that allowed the hour hand to be set independently of the other hands. A truly cosmopolitan watch, its design aims to help frequent travellers easily navigate their way across the globe through the addition of a second time zone.
Therefore, its design integrates a bidirectional rotatable bezel with a 24-hour graduated insert, which we have seen in numerous dual-colour combinations over the years. The lower half symbolises daytime hours, while the upper signals nighttime hours. The GMT-Master II can display the time in two time zones simultaneously: either the local time and a reference time, or the local time and that of an alternative time zone. The date only matches to the local time.
The Case
Widely recognised for its robustness and reliability, the 40 mm Oyster case of the GMT-Master II offers water resistance to a depth of 100 metres. The middle case of the new 2024 editions is crafted from a solid block of Oystersteel. Meanwhile, the caseback, edged with fine fluting, is hermetically screwed down with a special tool that allows only Rolex-certified watchmakers to access the movement. The Triplock winding crown, fitted with a triple waterproofness system and an integral crown guard, screws down securely against the case.
Cerachrom Bezel in Grey And Black
Ceramic is becoming an ever-more important material in the Swiss watch industry, not least thanks to the Rolex manufacture. Not only are the latest high-tech ceramic materials virtually scratch-proof and intense in colour, but also resistant to corrosion. On the new editions of the GMT-Master II, the bidirectional rotatable bezel comes with a subtle two-colour, 24-hour graduated Cerachrom insert in grey and black ceramic. The moulded, recessed graduations and numerals are coated with platinum via PVD (Physical Vapour Deposition). The bezel can also be turned with ease thanks to its knurled edge, which offers excellent grip.
Calibre 3285
The new GMT-Master II uses the calibre 3285, a movement created entirely by Rolex and released in 2018. It’s a self-winding mechanical movement known for its precision, long-lasting power, convenience, and reliability.
One of its key features is the patented Chronergy escapement, which is very efficient and reliable even in strong magnetic fields. It’s made of nickel-phosphorus, which adds to its durability. The movement also includes a blue Parachrom hairspring, made by Rolex from a special alloy that makes it stable in different temperatures and resistant to shocks. To ensure consistent performance, it has a Rolex overcoil. Plus, it’s protected from shocks by Rolex’s Paraflex shock absorbers. Since 2023, the 3285 has had an improved oscillating weight with optimised ball bearings.
Finally, the calibre 3285 winds itself using a Perpetual rotor. Because of its efficient design and escapement, it can keep ticking for about 70 hours without needing to be on the wrist. The movement beats at a frequency of 4 Hz.
Strap And Price
Last but not least, the new Rolex GMT-Master II in Oystersteel with grey and black Cerachrom bezel insert comes on either a sporty Oyster bracelet, or a more refined Jubilee bracelet. First appearing in the late 1930s, the Oyster bracelet stands dedicates itself to durability, featuring a distinctive three-piece link design. It remains a cornerstone of the Oyster Perpetual collection to this day. By contrast, the Jubilee bracelet emerged later, boasting a supple and comfortable five-piece link construction. Originally tailored for the Oyster Perpetual Datejust in 1945, it certainly makes for a more elegant look.
In any case, both the Oyster and Jubilee bracelets adorning the GMT-Master II make use of Rolex’s Oysterlock folding safety clasp. Adding to their practicality, they incorporate the innovative Easylink comfort extension link. This technology enables wearers to effortlessly adjust the bracelet length by approximately 5 mm, ensuring a perfect fit for any occasion.
Last but not least, the version with an Oyster bracelet (Ref. 126710GRNR) has a price of 10,950 euros, while the new GMT-Master II with a Jubilee bracelet (Ref. 126710GRNR) is slightly more at 11,150 euros.
