Universal Genève Presents Six Reinterpretations of a Historic Compax Chronograph

The revivers of the Universal Genève brand, founded in 1894 by Numa-Èmike Descombes and Ulysse-Georges Perret, certainly cannot be accused of acting rashly. At the end of 2023, private investment companies Partners Group and CVC Capital Partners took over Universal Genève, which had been in a deep slumber since 2009, and appointed Georges Kern as CEO.

The trio also jointly owns the Breitling brand, which in turn acquired the Gallet brand, founded in 1826, at the end of 2025. While the latter will be priced below Breitling – with the first new products also expected in 2026 – Universal Genève is to be positioned above it.

Reinterpretation of historical models by Universal Genève

After Universal Genève announced its comeback, there was radio silence for almost a year. Then, at the end of 2024, the company celebrated the relaunch of the Polerouter, which had been launched in 1954 to mark the 70th anniversary of the first transpolar flight by SAS (Scandinavian Airlines System) from Copenhagen to Los Angeles via the North Pole.

Now, with the Tribute to Compax collection, another reinterpretation of a historic model follows, making use of the waiting time for truly new models and hinting at the planned reorientation:

‘These six individually crafted watches reflect the direction we set out to take when we acquired the brand in 2023,’ said CEO Georges Kern. ‘Nina Rindt’s chronograph is one of the defining stories of Universal Genève. Reinterpreting it was never a question. It was part of our vision for the brand’s revival from the very beginning.’

Nina by Universal Genève – a tribute to a very special woman

Nina Rindt, now 82, was married to Austrian racing driver Jochen Rindt until his fatal training accident in Monza. He is considered one of the most fascinating figures in Formula 1 history, winning six Grand Prix races and being posthumously named world champion in 1970.

During her career in the 1960s and 1970s, Nina Rindt was a regular guest at racetracks around the world and became a style icon in the paddock, recognisable by her characteristic look with wide headbands and elegant outfits. And by her Universal Genève. Her husband had given her the Tri-Compax chronograph with three subdials so that she could measure race times. To improve readability, he even had the original black second hand replaced with a red one. While there is no reliable information about this, there is no question that Nina Rindt initially found the watch too masculine. The reason was the strap, which she had replaced after a visit to Paris.

There she discovered the so-called Bund bracelets. These wide leather cuffs were worn by pilots to protect their wrists from the heat in the cockpit. Equipped with one of these straps, Nina Rindt gave the watch a look that was very unconventional for the time. As a result, the once purely functional timepiece became a fashion statement and a favourite among watch collectors. On Chrono24, the Nina versions of the Tri-Compax chronograph by Universal Genève are currently listed at prices ranging from 4,800 to 53,000 euros, depending on the year of manufacture.

Today’s Nina is available for the first time with 18-carat white and red gold cases measuring 36 millimetres in diameter. It is water-resistant to three bar. While the 1960s model was equipped with a Valjoux 72 movement, the six new models are powered by the historic Universal 281 hand-wound calibre.

Tribute to Compax – 6 chronographs, 1 leather artist

Usually, when describing a watch, one does not begin with the strap. However, in the case of the six new Tribute to Compax models from Universal Genéve, these are an important part of the storytelling. Their design was therefore entrusted to Japanese leather artist Satoru Hosoi, who used Nina Rindt’s Bund strap as a source of inspiration and reinterpreted it with contemporary craftsmanship.

The handmade bracelets with gold buckles consist of three interlocking calfskin strips that are firmly sewn together – in contrast to the strap with removable backing. Brown and black are combined with white gold cases, while taupe or olive straps secure the watches with rose gold cases.

‘I wanted to create something that was unprecedented and at the same time extremely complex and unique,’ says Hosoi, who was awarded the title of ‘Meilleur Ouvrier de France’ (Best Craftsman in France) in 2015 and runs his own studio in Paris.

Historic movement for today’s Nina

Unlike all other components, the inner workings of the new Tribute to Compax timepiece are not a reinterpretation, but genuinely historical. The hand-wound calibre 281 used originates from the Compax era of Universal Genève in the 1960s and has been extensively refurbished. This resulted in chronographs with manual winding and a column wheel. The movement oscillates at 2.5 hertz (18,000 vph), offers a 36-hour power reserve and features hour, minute, small seconds and chronograph functions. ‘Universal Genève was once hailed as the couturier of watchmaking and was known for its in-house calibres and legendary models. It is a brand whose permanent comeback watch enthusiasts have long dreamed of,’ emphasises Alfred Gantner, co-founder of Partners Group and Chairman of the Breitling Board of Directors.

Dials in shimmering enamel

Universal Genève uses Grand Feu enamel for its dials – a traditional and decorative technique in which minerals mixed with metal oxides are fired in up to ten layers at over 800 °C. Any irregularity during the firing process can cause cracks or deformations in the enamel. When done correctly, however, a Grand Feu dial will never fade.

The six dials in this collection were crafted by experienced enamellers and feature a selection of classic opaque white and black to translucent blue and brown with matching white or black counters. The red lacquered chronograph seconds hand – reminiscent of Nina’s modified Compax – adds a modern touch to the collection. Both this hand and the black lacquered or red gold hour and minute hands are coated with Superluminova to ensure optimal readability.

Price & Availability

There are only six Tribute to Compax watches available, which are sold exclusively on request. The same applies to the price. The proceeds will go to the Geneva Watchmaking School, the oldest watchmaking school in Switzerland.

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