Before the official brand relaunch that is set for 2026, Universal Genève has unveiled three special timepieces in honour of the 70th anniversary of the first SAS flight over the North Pole. These tribute watches pay homage to the Polerouter, an iconic model created by young Gérald Genta. With a new case design and the historic Microtor movement, these watches bridge the gap between history and the brand’s future. One of these watches will be auctioned off at Phillips in May 2025, while the other two will remain in the Universal Genève archive.
The three tribute watches feature a newly designed case that is water-resistant, just like the original Polerouter. The tribute watches have a diameter of 35 mm, a thickness of 9.95 mm, and a lug width of 19 mm. The watch that is set for auction has a white gold case with the characteristic twisted lugs, giving it a unique and timeless appearance. The other two watches have either an 18k red gold case (reference RU6910) or a stainless steel case (reference AU6910). All three watches have cambered sapphire crystals that are anti-reflective on both sides.
The dials of the three tribute watches differ in colour and material but all feature the new Universal Genève logo alongside the historical and modern SAS logos. The Polerouter SAS Tribute with reference JU6910 has a blue satin-finish dial with a white gold inner bezel. The other two watches have a black dial with an 18k red gold inner bezel (reference RU6910) and a silver dial with an 18k red gold inner bezel (reference AU6910). The hour markers are attached to the glass, creating a three-dimensional effect. This design, patented by Universal Genève in 1953, was a characteristic feature of the original. The rhodium-plated hands on the first watch and the 18k red-gold-plated hands on the other two watches ensure optimal readability.
All three tribute watches are equipped with the original “Microtor” calibre 1-69 from the 1960s. This automatic movement, with a diameter of 28.5 mm and a depth of 4.75 mm, is renowned for its slim design. The rotor is positioned between the plates and bridges, allowing for a slimmer profile. The power reserve is approximately 57 hours, and the balance frequency is 18,000 vibrations per hour (2.5 Hz). The movement displays hours, minutes, and seconds.
The Polerouter SAS Tribute with reference JU6910 features a handcrafted bracelet made of 18k white gold, inspired by Universal Genève’s historical designs. This bracelet was made by Laurent Jolliet, the last chaîniste, or chain-maker, in Switzerland. The other two watches come with black calfskin leather straps and a red gold pin buckle on the RU6910 and a stainless steel pin buckle on the reference AU6910.
Laurent Jolliet
The Polerouter SAS Tribute with reference JU6910 will be auctioned at Phillips in May 2025. The proceeds will benefit CFP Arts in Geneva. The other two watches will not be sold and will remain in the Universal Genève archive. There is no information on the estimated price of the auction watch.
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