The Audemars Piguet x Swatch Royal Pop: Genius Collab or Collector’s Flop?

Alexander: So? Now that a few days have passed, what do you think of Swatch’s new Royal Pop collection, created in collaboration with Audemars Piguet?

Philippe: I think the designs are fun – and at the same time I’m relieved that it hasn’t turned out to be a boring 1:1 replica of the Royal Oak wristwatch, but instead a modern take on the pocket watch. What about you?

Alexander: It was Swatch that got me into watches in the first place, so I’m certainly a bit biased: basically, I think the Royal Pop concept is extremely clever and appealing. At the same time, my personal concern is that, in my view, collaborations as a marketing tool have got a bit out of hand in recent years. And as certain as I am that this collaboration will be a huge success, I would very much hope that Swatch would once again pull off a publicity coup without a ‘collab’ – that is, without teaming up with Omega, Blancpain or, in this case, Audemars Piguet.

Philippe: I see what you mean. Objectively speaking, the whole thing has actually been executed brilliantly. But from a collector’s point of view, I too would actually like to see Audemars Piguet, as the other party in the partnership, put a bit more effort into bringing fresh ideas to its own collection. The brand itself may see things differently, but I know from fellow watch enthusiasts: New customers are still advised to buy a Code 11.59 first before they can even consider a Royal Oak. If you don’t like that model, then the Royal Pop is obviously not a serious alternative. At the same time, I think the basic idea behind Swatch x Audemars Piguet is completely different from that of the Moonswatch with Omega.

Alexander: In what way?

Philippe: The Moonswatch is a watch for watch enthusiasts who either don’t yet have the financial means to buy an Omega Speedmaster, or who quite deliberately prefer to wear the more affordable Swatch version. With the Royal Pop, however, Ilaria Resta, the head of AP, has achieved exactly what is fundamentally very important to her: getting more women interested in watches. Because, in my view, the Royal Pop is, quite frankly, a rather feminine watch that looks great on a handbag or as an accessory. A sort of Labubu of the watch industry. It will probably only become a proper men’s watch once third-party suppliers find a good solution for wearing the Royal Pop on the wrist – something that is already being worked on intensively. Strap manufacturers are likely to have been the ones most eager to get their hands on the watch first!

Alexander: I feel the same way. At the same time, this collaboration is a smart way to establish the high-end luxury brand Audemars Piguet as ‘cool’ in the minds of tomorrow’s watch buyers. Of course, the manufacturer is world-famous, but we’ve noticed that not everything the older generation loves is automatically loved by their children. The fact is: just because a mother and grandmother read a particular fashion magazine doesn’t mean their daughter will see that magazine as the ultimate authority on fashion. She might prefer to listen to an influencer instead? Tomorrow’s customers have different role models to us, and they can – and will – celebrate different brands. To turn this generation into AP enthusiasts, it makes far more sense to collaborate with Swatch than to launch a Marvel partnership that manifests itself in a limited-edition Spider-Man tourbillon costing 200,000 euros. At the same time, this move allows AP to remain true to itself and clearly sets it apart from competitors such as Patek Philippe or Vacheron Constantin.

Philippe: On the other hand, a Royal Pop customer would probably never buy an AP pocket watch. That brings me back to Audemars Piguet’s clientele. Overall, the brand – at least in my view – had recently lost sight of the classic top-tier collector demographic. I therefore think it’s really good that Ilaria Resta now emphasises the sophisticated craftsmanship behind the manufacture of the watches in the brand’s communications at trade fairs and customer events. And, naturally, I also think it’s excellent that Audemars Piguet donates its share of the proceeds to an initiative for the preservation of special watchmaking crafts. Who do you actually think is the bigger winner in this collaboration?

Alexander: From a purely business perspective, it’s definitely Swatch. But in terms of brand communication and the long term, I get the feeling that Audemars Piguet stands to benefit the most. The partnership has given the brand a whole new level of visibility – even if it’s just through influencers’ Birkin bags.

Philippe: Absolutely, and while you’re on the subject of bags: for Swatch, it’s obviously a huge step to have entered into a collaboration with AP that goes far beyond its own group. That’s certainly a strong selling point for future partnerships, and why should these be limited to other watch brands? It could well end up being Swatch x Hermès!

audemarspiguet.com | swatch.com