In the late 1970s, Porsche Design developed the stainless steel military chronograph. The timepiece, which was characterised by reliability and optimal readability, attracted the interest of the aviation industry. Soon, international air forces, such as the pilots of the US Air Force, wore a Porsche Design chronograph on their wrist. Today, more than 40 years later, the legendary Chronograph 1 is making a comeback in the form of the Chronograph 1 Utility – Limited Edition. This time, the watch’s patented titanium carbide material promises a more durable, scratch-resistant and lighter case, while the historic dial design has also undergone a transformation.
A newly interpreted dial
The new product differs from its historical ancestor in three main ways. Above the day and date windows, Porsche Design have replaced the word ‘Military’ with the word ‘Utility’, thus underlining the timepiece’s tool watch characteristics. Meanwhile, the ‘TiC’ logo situated between 1 and 2 o’clock is a new interpretation of the ‘3H’ symbol of the military chronograph. While ‘3H’ stood for the use of tritium, known for its colour properties that guarantee readability in the dark, ‘TiC’ stands for titanium carbide, the innovative material used for the watch’s case. Today, of course, it is no longer tritium that ensures that the indices can be read even in the dark, but rather Super-LumiNova. The third key distinguishing feature lies between 4 and 5 o’clock: a screaming marmot. The word above it, ‘Mankei’, is a colloquial Austrian term for the animal. Previously, a tiger’s head used to be visible at this same position, representing the animal of the US Air Force. By contrast, the marmot represents a collaboration between Porsche Design and the F.A.T. Mankei hut, Ferdi Porsche’s restaurant on the famous Grossglockner High Alpine Road in Austria.
A titanium carbide case
In 1963, Ferdinand Alexander Porsche created the 911, demonstrating that Porsche products should not only be aesthetically pleasing, but also must fulfill a clear function: the harmony between modern form and function is crucial. With the vision of transferring these principles to other areas, he founded the design brand Porsche Design in 1972. Therefore, when developing the Chronograph 1 Utility, the manufacture’s designers considered what would Ferdinand Alexander Porsche have done to improve the functionality of the in-house watches while maintaining modern design. They found the answer in a titanium case made from their own patented material, titanium carbide.
While all-black Porsche Design titanium watches previously only had a titanium carbide coating, the manufacture has now dared to make an entire case out of the material. As with the Chronograph 1 – 911 Dakar, which was presented last year, the case of the Chronograph 1 Utility – Limited Edition is made entirely of the material. Titanium carbide boasts several impressive properties. Despite its astonishing lightness, it is also robust and scratch-resistant. However, the hardness of the material also presented a challenge for Porsche Design. With a diameter of 42.7 mm, the new product is around 2 mm larger than the basic model of the Chronograph 1. This size increase was necessary because no hole for the screw could be cut into the titanium carbide case.Therefore, enough space had to be created to accommodate a container to house the movement instead.Finally, the closed titanium caseback features two important details: ‘Flyback’ and ‘Utility’ lettering as well as the watch’s limitation number.
The movement of the Chronograph 1 Utility – Limited Edition
Powering the new watch is the Porsche Design chronograph calibre WERK 01.240 with flyback function. The flyback function of the chronograph allows starting, stopping and resetting in one single operation, which, in combination with the titanium carbide case, makes it an ideal companion for outdoor activities. The power reserve is 48 hours.
The straps
The ‘BUND’ leather strap, which is also used on the Chronograph 1 Utility – Limited Edition, is also symbolic of the military chronograph. The new product is delivered on a slate grey calf leather strap, as is used in the Porsche interiors. The chronograph’s features also include a white textile strap with a badge that has the coordinates of the F.A.T. Ice Race in Zell am See. This textile strap can be worn comfortably over a ski suit and is therefore ideal for winter sports activities.
Price and availability
The titanium carbide watches from Porsche Design are very popular. Porsche Design presented a complete titanium carbide case for the first time with the aforementioned Chronograph 1 – 911 Dakar, which was available exclusively to buyers of the sports car. Of the 2,500 buyers of the 911 Dakar, over 1,000 decided to purchase the watch. It is therefore not surprising that the Chronograph 1 Utility – Limited Edition, limited to 250 pieces, is now available to everyone on the open market. The Porsche Design Chronograph 1 Utility – Limited Edition can be pre-ordered from October 9, 2023 on porsche-design.com and will be available from January 15, 2024 in Porsche Design stores worldwide and selected watch retailers at a price of 11,950 euros (RRP).
We've already covered the Louis Vuitton x Akrivia LVRR-01 Chronographe à Sonnerie in great detail, from interviews with Rexhepi to analysis of the unexpected collaboration. Now, however, it's time to get technical – with a little help from Jean Arnault and Rexhep Rexhepi, who both shared some thoughts with us at the launch in Los Angeles yesterday. LVRR01…
A new manufacture calibre, with a power reserve of three days, appears in six new versions of one of the Italian brand Panerai’s best-sellers, with updated technology and new aesthetic details. For many years the 'Luminor Logo' with its masculine, but simple look has been one of the best-sellers of the Panerai collections. The new models are available in…
At this year's Watches & Wonders 2020, Vacheron Constantin is introducing several novelties. The Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Tourbillon Chronograph is an addition to the Traditionnelle collection. The watch combines a monopusher chronograph with a tourbillon. The new 42.5 mm model has a 18-carat 5N case and it presents itself on a dark brown leather alligator…
From Claudia Schiffer to Cartier's ambassador Rami Malek, Cartier's Tank Française has long been a staple for many a fan of the Tank. Nevertheless, after peacefully existing at the company for the past 20 years, Cartier is now adding a new spin to its Tank Française. While six of the current models are quartz, Cartier…
Angelus presents two new editions of the Instrument de Vitesse. The Indianapolis and Silverstone editions feature a 39 mm steel case, a manual winding movement with a one-minute chronograph, and a tachymetric scale. Both watches are produced in a limited edition of 25 pieces and come with a matching nubuck strap. Case The case of…
With barely 40 years under its belt, Hublot is a fairly young watch brand. Despite this, it is by no means lacking in self-confidence in an industry where many of the biggest horology houses have a history that stretches back a good 150 years or more. Hublot’s self-assurance is at least partly due to the…
Roger Dubuis is introducing another Blacklight Edition model, the Excalibur Blacklight Spin-Stone Monobalancier. Although the novelty remains true to its line with Roger Dubuis' signature skeletonised dial, the new Hyper Horology watch is already a true pioneer of the collection thanks to its implementation of a novel synthetic process. The case The case of the…
On the occasion of Watches & Wonders 2024, TAG Heuer is presenting the Carrera Chronograph Panda. The Carrera has been around since 1963 and celebrated its 60th birthday last year. We are now seeing a new variant with a Panda dial inspired by the historic 7753 SN from the 1960s. "SN" stands for "silver noir"…
The Code 11.59 line from Audemars Piguet is only getting better – and two of its latest novelties are definitive proof. Growing into its own and developing its DNA ever further, the collection is evidently here to impress with the new Code 11.59 Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon and Minute Repeater Supersonnerie. As always, Swisswatches is here…
Breitling is presenting three new models together with Bucherer. The three Breitling Superocean Bucherer Exclusive models in 36, 42 and 44 mm come in novel colours and celebrate the new partnership between the two Swiss companies. Following the takeover by Rolex in summer 2023, the jeweller, retailer and watch manufacturer Bucherer shows itself to still…
Jaquet Droz is introducing the Grande Seconde Quantième 41 mm. Seven variations of the new watch are available: four of the editions have an 18-carat red-gold case with grand feu enamel dials in anthracite, ivory, burgundy, or deep blue. Meanwhile, the other three editions are housed in a stainless-steel case and showcase a sandblasted titanium grey,…
At this years watch fair SIHH in Geneva, Panerai introduced two new diving watches with Carbotech. Carbotech is a material based on carbon fibre. Especially due to its lightness in comparison to steel or titanium and its resistance to external shocks and corrosion Panerai now uses this carbon fibre based material for producing professional diving watches.…
In addition to a redesigned Submariner and new Oyster Perpetual models, Rolex is also introducing a new version of the Sky-Dweller with an Oysterflex bracelet. Previously only "professional" models such as the Rolex Daytona and Yacht-Master were available with this bracelet, which is made of metal blades covered with elastomer. The new combination is reserved…