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Watches & Wonders 2023: Tudor Novelties

Watches & Wonders 2023: Tudor Novelties

27. March 2023

This year, coinciding with the official press opening of the new Tudor manufacture, Tudor is introducing several new models to the following collections: the Black Bay, Black Bay 54 and Black Bay GMT, and Tudor Royal. As well as adding some new spins to the dials, Tudor is also treating us to new straps as well as new case sizes, making this year’s novelties particularly versatile.

A METAS certification for the Black Bay

Tudor’s latest Black Bay model, Reference 7941A1A0RU, keeps things slow and steady by largely simply refining its best-selling model – but it does have one rather important new quality. This latest 41 mm model holds a Master Chronometer certification – something Tudor is hoping to extend to all of its watches in the near future. This marks the third application of METAS’ standards to a watch in the Tudor collection.

In order to gain a METAS status, watches must: be made in Switzerland, hold a COSC certification, and maintain precision despite testing at two different temperatures, positions, and levels of power reserve. In addition, the watches must offer 70 hours of power reserve and function smoothly even when exposed to magnetic fields of 15,000 gauss and 200 m of water pressure. The Reference 7941A1A0RU, as well as the calibre MT5602-U powering it, meets all of these requirements.

The timepiece is presented on a new five-oval-shaped-link brushed bracelet, alongside a black rubber strap or three-link steel bracelet. The price of the Reference 7941A1A0RU with rubber strap is 3,950 Swiss francs; with three-link bracelet is costs 4,150 Swiss francs; and with the new five-link bracelet, the price is 4,250 Swiss francs.

Black Bay 54 debuts at Watches & Wonders 2023

In addition, Tudor is adding a new addition to the line in the form of the Black Bay 54. This purist 37 mm model recalls the Reference 7922 from 1954, aka the earliest Submariner (later to morph into the Black Bay) in the Tudor family. In fact, it is the most accurate interpretation of the original model to date.

Tudor’s Ref. 7922 used the Rolex’s three-part Oyster case with a screw-in caseback and crown, making it an impressive piece that was also water-resistant to 100 m. Powering the 7922 model was the automatic calibre 390, based on Fleurier’s high-quality base calibre. While the dial displayed the name TUDOR, the riveted Oyster bracelet bore Rolex’s logo.

While maintaining the proportions and 37 mm diameter of the original’s case, the new Black Bay 54 offers a water-resistance of 200 m. Yet, as with the original, its redesigned bezel is without any graduated hash marks, and the watch also recalls the 50s with its vintage-style lollipop seconds hand, as well as the brand’s hallmark ‘snowflake’ hands introduced in the 1960s. In addition, a redesigned crown makes this watch as ergonomic as possible.

Powering the new piece is the manufacture calibre MT5400, a COSC-certified movement with a silicon balance spring, 70-hour power reserve, and frequency of 4 Hz. The movement’s design ensures robustness and precision by maintaining the variable inertia balance wheel with a sturdy traversing bridge with a two-point anchoring.

Last but not least, the Black Bay 54 comes with a satin-brushed three-link steel bracelet, complete with the Tudor ‘T-fit’ clasp equipped with a system for rapid length adjustment. Alternatively, a black rubber strap option is also available. The price of the model is 3,450 Swiss francs on a rubber strap, or 3,650 Swiss francs with the bracelet.

Tudor Black Bay 31/36/39/41

Meanwhile, the brand’s classic Black Bay models are making an appearance in steel with a fixed bezel, with four different sizes available. They also mark the introduction of brand-new sunray dials, which come in blue, anthracite, or light champagne with or without diamonds. Tudor equip them all with the manufacture’s new five-link bracelet and clasp with rapid adjustment.

The manufacture powers all of these watches with in-house calibres: the MT5201 for the 31mm, MT5400 for the 36 mm, the MT5602 for the 39mm, and MT5601 for the 41mm model. All of these movements carry a COSC certification. While the smallest models has a 50-hour power reserve, its larger siblings are weekend-proof thanks to a 70-hour power reserve. Finally, the prices of these models vary according to dial decoration, however the collection starts at 3,550 Swiss francs.

Tudor Black Bay GMT

Elsewhere in the realm of Tudor’s Black Bay, Tudor is using Watches & Wonders 2023 to introduce a new version of its popular Black Bay GMT. The shining light of this novelty is its ethereal opaline dial. Through a galvanic process, a matte white-grey finish is applied to the dial, giving it a silvered effect. Alongside its distinctive matt burgundy and blue bezel, it has a light and even summery feel. The watch is housed in a 41 mm steel case, and provides water resistance to 200 m. Meanwhile, its winding crown tube is in satin-brushed steel – a novelty for the Black Bay line, yet one that is in keeping with the case and winding crown.

Powering the new Black Bay GMT is the manufacture’s calibre MT5652, a COSC-certified movement with a silicon balance spring and 70-hour power reserve. This movement with integrated GMT function and jumping hour hand and retrograde date setting indicates the additional time zones with the help of a red ‘Snowflake’ hand. Finally, the price of the watch is 3,800 Swiss francs on a black fabric strap with burgundy accents, or 4,100 Swiss francs with the classic three-link stainless steel bracelet.

Tudor Royal

Last but not least, the Tudor Royal collection is enjoying some updates, not least in the form of an attractive new sunray chocolate-coloured dial. These bicolour steel and yellow-gold pieces come in 28, 34, 38, or 41 mm. Alternatively, all four case sizes are also available in steel, showcasing a trendy salmon-coloured dial. Powering these watches, which are water-resistant to 100 m, are the self-winding T201 (28 mm), T601 (34 and 38 mm), or T603 (41 mm) calibres. The watches’ prices vary according to size, dial, and decoration, starting at 2,200 Swiss francs.