Watches & Wonders 2026: Alpina Presents New Startimer Pilot Automatic

You don’t have to be a pilot to appreciate the benefits of a pilot’s watch. Typically, these timepieces feature clearly structured dials with large Arabic numerals, excellent legibility, and straightforward operation via an easy-grip crown. These qualities make a watch just as appealing on the ground as they do in the air, and ensure it remains a practical everyday companion.

The roots of the pilot’s watch, however, lie firmly in aviation. They emerged in the early decades of the 20th century, when pilots relied on precise timekeeping for safe navigation. Many used dead reckoning, navigated by radio beacons, or determined their position using the sun and stars. Pilot’s watches were essential instruments for early pioneers of flight, also allowing them to calculate fuel consumption based on elapsed flight time.

Despite their relatively simple functionality, pilot’s watches were true tool watches that enabled the achievements of early aviators. They still appeal to people because of this combination of heroic heritage, functional clarity, and unadorned design, even when there is solid ground beneath one’s feet.

Therefore, it is no surprise that Alpina dedicated an entire collection to the DNA of its pilot’s watches with the launch of the Startimer in 2011. Drawing inspiration from Alpina’s 1920s and 1930s designs, the line pays homage to the brand’s history of supplying robust military and pilot’s watches to various military and aviation units across Europe.

The new Alpina Startimer line-up

The newly introduced models in this range have undergone a careful facelift – no easy feat, particularly when working with one of a brand’s most recognisable collections, such as Alpina’s Startimer. It requires a delicate touch: preserving the character of the original while ensuring the updated models meet contemporary expectations and provide genuine added value, both visually and technically.

Alpina has achieved this with the Startimer collection, despite the breadth of modifications. The updates extend to the case shape and finish, the movement, the dial, and the straps.

The case of the Startimer Pilot Automatic

Over the course of its evolution since 2011, the Startimer has appeared with two different bezel styles: fluted and smooth. For the four new models presented at Watches & Wonders 2026, Alpina has opted for the smooth version, paired with a more compact case.

The 40 x 10.14 mm stainless steel case is water-resistant up to 10 bar and has bevelled edges. The bezel has a circular satin finish, while the lugs and case middle have a vertical brushed finish, creating an attractive contrast with the high-polished bevelled edges. The newly designed crown provides a secure grip. Three of the models are made of classic stainless steel, while the fourth has a black PVD coating. All of the models feature a solid steel caseback engraved with a historic aviation motif.

A new base for the AL-525

Powering the new Alpina pilot’s watches is the AL-525 movement. While the new Startimer Pilot Automatic was initially based on the Sellita SW200 with a 38-hour power reserve, it now uses an automatic calibre from La Joux-Perret, offering an extended 68-hour power reserve. Like Alpina, La Joux-Perret is a Swiss movement specialist that is part of the Citizen Group.

A velvety dial

The dial of the new Startimer Pilot Automatic models retains the hallmark legibility of a pilot’s watch. The backdrop is now a velvety, grained surface in black, petrol blue, or khaki green, complemented by a stepped flange and a white minute track.

A closer look reveals another detail: the crossbar of the ‘A’ in the red Startimer logo is missing. It is a subtle nod to the brand’s emblem, which echoes the stylised shape of an Alpine peak.

The applied numerals, rendered in a modernised typeface, are made of luminescent material, as are the indices. They emit a strong glow in a tone coordinated with the respective dial colour.

Leather, NATO-style and Cordura

The new Startimer Pilot Automatic collection is available on a light or dark brown leather strap or a black Cordura strap. The exception is the ‘Full Black’ version, which is worn on a brown NATO-style leather strap.

Price & availability

The new Startimer Pilot Automatic models are available online and from authorised Alpina retailers. The price for the ‘Full Black’ version is 1,395 euros, while all other versions cost 1,295 euros.

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