W&W 2025: The New Hublot Big Bang Unico Water Blue Sapphire
The Big Bang – the watch that disrupted traditional notions of luxury timepieces upon its launch in 2005 and has since become a core part of Hublot’s portfolio – celebrates its 20th anniversary this year. A trajectory that not only reflects the longevity of the collection, but also its continuous evolution in both design and technical sophistication. At Watches and Wonders 2025 in Geneva, the brand is unveiling the Big Bang Unico Water Blue Sapphire, limited to just 50 pieces. The watch combines a water-blue sapphire crystal case with a skeletonised dial and Hublot’s first fully in-house developed and manufactured chronograph calibre, the MHUB1280. Here’s everything you need to know about this timepiece with a view.
Case
For two decades now, Hublot has continually drawn new design concepts from the round case of its Big Bang, while also using it to experiment with innovative materials and colours. As a creative playground for the brand, the Big Bang has appeared in deep-black “All Black” aesthetics, been made fully transparent with models like the Big Bang Orange Sapphire, or adopted the grain of Damascus steel, more commonly found in bladesmithing, as seen in the Unico Gourmet. Once again, the case material takes centre stage.
The new model features a case made entirely of water-blue, polished sapphire crystal – a material previously known only from the MP-11 Water Blue Sapphire, which offered an impressive 14-day power reserve, and now, for the first time, finds its way into the regular Big Bang Unico collection.
With a diameter of 44 millimetres and a thickness of 14.50 millimetres, the timepiece remains faithful to the collection’s bold proportions. It is water-resistant to 50 metres. The bezel is also crafted from sapphire and secured by six H-shaped titanium screws, while the anti-reflective sapphire caseback reveals the automatic chronograph calibre MHUB1280 within.
Dial
The skeletonised dial of the Big Bang Unico Water Blue Sapphire offers an unimpeded view of the movement beneath. The open-worked design adheres to a philosophy of exposing mechanical function – for instance, the calendar display, which is integrated within the chronograph minute counter at 3 o’clock. The weekdays rotate beneath the blue indices and hands, which echo the tone of the sapphire case. Opposite, at 9 o’clock, is the chronograph seconds counter.
Movement
Powering the Big Bang Unico Water Blue Sapphire is Hublot’s in-house chronograph calibre MHUB1280 – the brand’s first fully internally developed and produced movement with a flyback function. This integrated automatic movement, equipped with a column wheel and horizontal clutch, comprises 354 components and is designed with a modern, streamlined construction to enhance reliability and serviceability. The bidirectional winding mechanism enables a power reserve of 72 hours, while the movement beats at a frequency of 4 Hz (28,800 vibrations per hour). A Swiss silicon lever escapement rounds off the technical profile. The mainplate, bridges and rotor are finished in an anthracite grey, visible at all times through the skeletonised dial and transparent caseback.
Price and Availability
The Big Bang Unico Water Blue Sapphire is strictly limited to 50 pieces, increasing its appeal to collectors. It is available through Hublot boutiques and authorised retailers. The price is set at €143,000. The watch is delivered on a water-blue and transparent rubber strap, colour-matched to the sapphire case.
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