To mark its 160th anniversary, Zenith gifts the watchmaking world a new Chronomaster Original, housed in stainless steel and with a blue dial. The line, launched in 2021, represents the legitimate heir to Zenith’s 1969 A386 – one of the first chronographs equipped with the legendary high-frequency El Primero calibre in stainless steel. An icon in every sense.
Beyond its groundbreaking movement, the A386 was distinguished by its classic round case and straight lugs. Most notably, however, its novel, overlapping, tri-colour chronograph counters left a lasting impression. There have been numerous reinterpretations over the years – including gold versions of the A386 – but until four years ago, Zenith owed collectors and chronograph enthusiasts a new stainless steel edition as a permanent part of the collection. At last, the steel successor arrived, instantly delighting the watch community with its faithful design and vintage spirit.
Now, unsurprisingly, the LVMH-owned brand marks its 160th anniversary with yet another Chronomaster Original in stainless steel. And it is most certainly more than a simple remake. While this chronograph remains true to the design elements and proportions of its predecessor – sure to please many enthusiasts – it takes performance to the cutting edge of modern horology.
The automatic El Primero 3600 calibre – launched in 2019 for the 50th anniversary of the movement – beats at a formidable 36,000 vibrations per hour. This allows the chronograph to measure elapsed times to a precise tenth of a second, indicated by the central chronograph seconds hand, which completes a full revolution in just ten seconds instead of the usual sixty. The date is positioned at 4:30, while the small seconds display sits at 9 o’clock.
A hacking seconds mechanism is also included, enabling precise time setting. When the crown is pulled out, the mechanism halts the balance wheel, stopping both the movement and the seconds hand. Despite the high frequency of 5 Hz, the El Primero 3600 offers a substantial power reserve of 60 hours. For those who appreciate technical aesthetics, the sapphire caseback affords a view of the intricate architecture, showcasing the column wheel and skeletonised rotor adorned with Zenith’s five-pointed star.
The colour blue has always held special significance for Zenith. Founder Georges Favre-Jacot chose the brand’s name inspired by the starry night sky, with the word “zenith” denoting the highest point in the heavens – a symbol of excellence. Thus, blue became the brand’s signature colour.
Naturally, this sunray-finished dial is adorned in Zenith blue, serving as a midnight canvas for the emblematic counters, borrowed from the A386, in grey, dark grey and – of course – blue. A silvered tenth-of-a-second scale circles the dial, providing a contrasting backdrop that enhances legibility. The time is indicated by applied, rhodium-plated, faceted baton indices and baton hands, all coated with Super-LumiNova.
The compact, 38-millimetre stainless steel case is water-resistant to 5 bar and fits a wide variety of wrist sizes. It is a faithful reproduction of the protective case from the 1969 A386, based on the original design plans. Features include the round, bezel-free construction with pump-style pushers, the slanted profile, and the faceted lugs. The interplay of brushed and polished surfaces brings the case to life.
The watch comes with both a blue calfskin leather strap with matching stitching and a three-link stainless steel bracelet, each fitted with a folding clasp. Available at Zenith boutiques, the brand’s online shop, and authorised retailers, the blue Chronomaster Original is priced at €10,400.
Zenith
Chronomaster Original
03.3200.3600/52.C910
Stainless steel
Diameter: 38 mm
Height: 12.6 mm
Lug-to-lug: 46 mm
5 bar (50 metres)
Blue with sunray finish and three differently coloured subdials
Blue calfskin strap with a stainless steel folding clasp and metal bracelet with integrated folding clasp
El Primero 3600
Self-winding
60 hours
36,000 vibrations per hour (5 Hz)
Central hours and minutes, small seconds at 9 o’clock, tenth-of-a-second chronograph – central chronograph hand making one rotation every 10 seconds
EUR 10,400
