Green is known as the embodiment of hope. It is the colour of the first lush leaves and grass to shoot up in spring. It stands for better times and a prosperous harvest following the bleak winter months. Perhaps its symbolism provides an explanation as to why so many horology houses are choosing to introduce green dial watches in 2021. After a gruelling first year of the pandemic, it seems we are clinging to the hope of better times. While the ongoing blue dial trend is clearly here to stay, it’s now evident that green is the colour of the moment. We decided to put five of these green horological rays of hope under the lens.
Patek Philippe recently shocked the world by announcing that production of its arguably most popular watch, Reference Nautilus 5711/1A, was coming to an end. Its replacement is the Reference 5711/1A-014 with an olive-green dial, which remains largely unchanged in all other respects. That said, alongside the new colour scheme, the watch also now features a polished frame around the date window.
At first, it was strange to see the new model; perhaps we are still too used to seeing the aesthetic of the famous blue dial Nautilus. However, at second glance, you realise just how much you like the new version. It is slightly less sporty than its predecessor, but super elegant and gallantly lowkey.
Looking at the watch in the right light, one can see how, thanks to the reflections of the steel case, the dial’s sunburst pattern plays with the light. Its colour changes from a deep olive-green to a delicate mint. Meanwhile, Patek uses its usual proven formula for the case architecture. Likewise, the automatic calibre 26-330 S C ticks away inside as always. As with the blue dial Nautilus, the 5711/1A-014 will remain a rarity. According to the manufacture, it will only be in production for one year. This doesn’t make it a limited edition, of course, but strictly regulated. The price is 30,100 euros.
Was it a coincidence or planning? Shortly after the end of blue Nautilus’ run, AP also let it be known that its own icon of the last 40 years was to be discontinued. Production of the Royal Oak Jumbo Extra Thin 15202 with a blue tapisserie dial is soon coming to an end.
However, CEO Bennahmais is compensating the brand’s clientele by introducing a new Jumbo with a smoky green sunburst dial. Both the bracelet and 39 mm case are made of 950 platinum. With a case height of exactly 8.1 mm, it can carry the status of “extra-thin”.
Powering the new Royal Oak Jumbo in green is the automatic calibre 2121, which is visible via the open sapphire crystal caseback. The rotor is 22-carat gold, all finishing on the movement is done in-house, and it has a 40 hour power reserve. Fans will also heave a sigh of relief upon learning that this is not a limited edition. They might, however, miss a beat upon learning its price of 105,300 euros. The watch is available exclusively in AP Houses worldwide.
Back in the 30s, Jaeger-LeCoultre was very much one of the first to the party in terms of coloured dials. Even in 1931, it was offering silvery white, dark grey and red dials. In 1933, a navy blue version also joined these dial options, succeeded only two years later by a seductive chocolate-brown dial.
2016 saw the introduction of a series of new Jaeger-LeCoultre Tribute models, which paid respect to the original from 1931. Now, right on trend and in homage to the colourful dials, it is appearing in green at Watches & Wonders 2021. The rich colour of the lacquered sunburst dial is meant to evoke the fir forests of the Vallée de Joux, home to the horology house.
Inside ticks the rectangular Jaeger-LeCoultre 822/2 calibre, created specially for the Reverso. It offers small seconds and a 42-hour power reserve – more than enough for a few polo parties, for which the watch was originally created. The price is 8,350 euros.
The current strategy of this Schaffhausen-based brand is to offer its most popular models in smaller proportions. The new Reference IW3881 brings together a smaller size of 41 mm with a highly contemporary look, which is nevertheless deeply rooted in IWC history.
The dial, which takes inspiration from cockpit instruments, is available not just in blue, but also green. Together with its steel bracelet, the watch is an extremely laid-back, “tool-watch” kind of chronograph. It is also available with a brown leather strap, which can quickly be switched up thanks to the incredibly easy-to-use Ease-Change-System.
Aside from the green dial, the biggest novelty is inside the watch. The manufacture calibre 69385 has a 46-hour power reserve and is visible via the sapphire crystal caseback. The price is 6,850 euros.
With the introduction of the new Black Fifty-Eight 18K, TUDOR is causing a stir that rivals the blue version’s last year. The case is not exactly bronze, as one might expect for a diver’s watch. Rather, it is in 18-carat gold and accompanies a domed green dial.
Speaking of atypical features for a diver’s watch – TUDOR include a sapphire crystal caseback. The brand doesn’t tend to be too strict with its tool watches. After all, they tend to be worn on wrists of fashion-conscious city dwellers. It might not be right for purists, but that crowd has the many other 58 models in TUDOR’s portfolio to enjoy.
Alongside the 39 mm gold case, the crown and bezel also use precious metal. The 60-minute graduation on the bezel is aluminum. For a few years now, TUDOR has been offering in-house calibres, as is the case for the new Fifty-Eight 18K. It can be worn on a brown alligator leather strap (as in our photograph), or else on a green textile strap with gold stripes. At 15,620 euros, it evidently also stands out from its siblings in terms of price.
