Blancpain’s Fifty Fathoms collection has entered a new chapter with the introduction of a 38 mm Automatique line. This latest addition not only brings a more compact dimension to the collection but also broadens its aesthetic and functional appeal. Available in stainless steel, grade 23 titanium, and 18 ct red gold, the new models pair these cases with sunburst blue or black dials, offering a more classic counterpoint to the expressive designs introduced in recent years. With the introduction of the new 38 mm references, the Fifty Fathoms Automatique line now presents itself as a diverse collection offering case sizes ranging from 38 to 42 and even 45 mm.
Launched originally in 1953 under the direction of Jean-Jacques Fiechter, the Fifty Fathoms was a technical trailblazer, introducing features such as a lockable rotating bezel and enhanced water resistance – elements that would come to define the professional dive watch. The new 38 mm versions, featuring new materials, dial variations and strap options, continue this heritage while appealing to a growing audience that values more compact proportions.
The 38 mm case is offered in three primary materials: polished stainless steel, satin-brushed grade 23 titanium, and 18 ct red gold. Each measures 12.00 mm in thickness, with a lug width of 19 mm—dimensions intended to ensure visual balance and comfortable wear across a range of wrist sizes. The material selection reflects different priorities: stainless steel offers durability and familiarity; titanium provides lightness and corrosion resistance; and red gold introduces a more luxurious touch. A unidirectional rotating bezel – an enduring hallmark of the series – is present on all models, fitted with a domed sapphire insert for enhanced clarity and resistance to scratching.
The dials of the 38 mm models come in classic sunburst dials in deep blue (for the titanium and gold model) or black (for the steel model) as well as in more elaborate mother-of-pearl dégradé versions in pink or smoky black, which were already featured in the recently launched special editions. Oversized luminescent hour markers are framed in either red or white gold, depending on the case material, and paired with hands filled with Super-LumiNova to ensure strong visibility in low-light or underwater conditions.
At the heart of each model lies the Blancpain calibre 1150, a self-winding movement developed in-house. Comprising 210 components, it operates at a frequency of 3 Hz (21,600 vibrations per hour) and offers an impressive power reserve of approximately 100 hours. The movement features a silicon balance spring, which provides resistance to magnetic fields. Visible through a sapphire crystal caseback, the calibre is finely finished and equipped with an 18 ct gold rotor coated in NAC (Nickel Anthracite Coating), a subtle nod to early Fifty Fathoms designs. Although its 3 Hz frequency is slightly lower than the more common 4 Hz standard seen in modern sports watches, this trade-off supports the extended power reserve.
A wide selection of straps and bracelets is available, including tropic rubber, sail-canvas, NATO, and metal bracelets in either stainless steel or titanium. These bracelets feature alternating satin-brushed and polished surfaces, adding visual nuance. While the 19 mm lug width may limit compatibility with standard aftermarket straps, Blancpain’s proprietary offerings allow wearers to choose between a variety of configurations.
The new Fifty Fathoms Automatique 38 mm models are available now, with pricing varying by case material and configuration. Stainless steel editions are priced between CHF 14,000 and 16,300; titanium versions range from CHF 15,000 to 16,600; and red gold models are offered from CHF 25,600 to 28,500. All versions are sold with a choice of strap or bracelet, which may influence the final retail price. All models are currently part of the regular collection and are not limited editions.
