The new Breitling Premier – a watch line for the stylish shore leave
Shortly after the watch community started to calm down again, BREITLING CEO Georges Kern comes up with the next surprise. A collection that at first sight doesn’t seem to fit to the usual look of BREITLING watches, as the ‘Premier’ line is simple and elegant. No slide ruler, no oversized bezel as we know them from the striking pilots- and divers-watches of the brand – but slim cases and discrete dial-design instead.
Discrete – the new Breitling Premier Chronograph 42
Everyone who is familiar with the brands history knows that the ‘Premier’ plays an important role for the brand. Georges Kern has not eliminated the old watch design of BREITLING as many criticize, but he finally awakes the brand from its decades long sleep, takes into account every single collection, modernizes them and fills long forgotten watch lines with new life. Beyond this, the brand very well knows about the relevance of the clients that are extremely interested in vintage watches, and serves them.
Stylish – the Breitling Premier Automatic 40
In 1915 BREITLING patented their first chronograph with a start/stop pusher at 2 o’clock. The Art Deco inspired watch was the first wristwatch of the brand and still had a lot in common with a pocket watch. In 1932 Willy Breitling took over and in 1933 introduced the first chronograph as we still know it today. Basically the modern great grandfather of the chronograph – with start/stop pusher at 2 o’clock and a second pusher for the reset-function at 4 o’clock.
From Artdeco watches to modern Chronographs
In the 1930s and 1940s Willy Breitling developed mainly cockpit watches for the Royal Air Force. At that time the watch expert was widely appreciated for his high-quality and reliable timepieces, especially for military- and pilot-watches. During war time the chronograph for the wrist became more and more popular and hence in 1938 the BREITLING chronographs 734 & 765 were developed. They were the first harbingers of the ‘Premier’ collection, however they primarily served as reliable tool watches at that time.
The first Premier watch by Breitling – the Ref. 734 from 1943
But in these political unstable times Willy Breitling also craved for some normalcy. Hence the ‘Premier’ was established, a fashionable watch that would also allow a form of escape from the terrible impact of the global conflict. The ‘Premier’ was an expression of optimism, a watch that in the beginning was solely used for its functionality, but now became more and more a fashionable product. Ever since then the ‘Premier’ mainly stayed on the ground and added a watch for a stylish shore leave to the portfolio, next to the existing fields of air and water. In a way, Willy Breitling was obsessed with the good style of a man. He once said: “When a man puts on his watch, it is the unmistakable stamp of impeccable taste”. The ‘Premier’ however never lost its technical approach and the name literally stands for function ‘first’ and for ‘first-class’ materials.
Breitling Premier Ref. 797 from 1947
The original ‚Premier’ timepieces with their 36- to 38-millimetres cases were little smaller than the familiar tool watches. They were often crafted from gold and offered with a leather strap. However, Willy Breitling stayed true to his brand-slogan to produce ‘instruments for professionals’ and hence the ‘Premier’ watches were equipped with the highest degree of technology that BREITLING can offer.
A very well preserved Breitling Premier Ref. 760 from 1944
The new models too unite aesthetic and technology. The Premier B01 Chronograph 42 lineis equipped with the BREITLING in-house calibre 01 and is the flagship of the new collection. The calibre 01 is known to be one of the best mechanical movements in the world and offers a power reserve of 70 hours.
Aesthetic meets technology – the Premier B01 Chronograph 42 with a Breitling in-house calibre 01
The new ‚Premier’ collection is divided into five different series with different versions within it. The Premier B01 Chronograph 42, Premier Chronograph 42, Premier Automatic 40, Premier Automatic Day & Date 40 and the Premier B01 Chronograph 42 Bentley British Racing Green. The Premier B01 Chronograph 42, and the Premier Chronograph 42 evoke BREITLING’s elegant watches from the 1940s more than any other watch in the new collection.
The new Premier B01 Chronograph 42 design comes closest to the original watches from 1943
In this collection the dials are striking aesthetical. They shimmer blue, anthracite or silver that are also used for the new Navitimer 1 and Navitimer 8 watches that have been introduced at the start of this year.
Special edition – Breitling Premier B01 Chronograph 42 Bentley in British Racing Green
Another watch with a dial in ‘Racing Green’ has been dedicated to the long partnership with Bentley (and also houses the calibre 01). You can choose between straps in stainless steel, nubuck or alligator leather in brown, black or blue, depending on the watch type.
The Hamilton story starts in 1982 in in the U.S. city of Lancaster, Pennsylvania. At a time when the country further extended their infrastructure with rail transport, also the number of accidents increased, as time keeping was not always precise enough. Hamilton made itself a name with accurate pocket watches and became famous as "The…
It’s a blisteringly hot day in Geneva. Even within the cool stone walls of the luxurious Beau Rivage Hotel, and despite its breezy terrace looking out onto the lake, I am fairly sure that a good half of the guests in Frederique Constant’s suite at Geneva Watch Days have a headache. To let you into…
Rolex is the most well-known and revered horology house on the planet. Owning a Rolex is the ultimate symbol of prosperity in the western world. But just how much money do these watches actually involve? It's time to discover the most expensive Rolex watches ever, from the stories behind them to understanding their nicknames. Get…
The Rolex Certified Pre-Owned programme at Bucherer offers a high-quality and trustworthy alternative to buying pre-owned Rolex luxury watches. But how does the buying, selling, authentication and certification of pre-owned watches actually work? Rolex Certified Pre-Owned at Bucherer In 2019, luxury watch and jewellery retailer Bucherer ventured into the pre-owned luxury watch trade and opened…
Out of the 60 watch brands attending Watches and Wonders, from highly anticipated horological giants like Patek Philippe to independent geniuses like Christiaan van der Klaauw, Van Cleef & Arpels is a booth that journalists and retailers alike particularly look forward to visiting. It’s not just because of the brand’s inevitably enchanting stand design; watchmaker…
Under the leadership of co-founders Michel Navas and Enrico Barbasini, Louis Vuitton’s La Fabrique du Temps is steadily establishing itself as a serious contender in the realm of haute horlogerie – despite being little more than a decade old. Today, the manufacture not only produces its own movements, but also undertakes intricate and rare decorative…
The Navitimer from Breitling is turning 70! Originally conceived as a tool watch with which pilots could still perform flight calculations using a completely analogue system, it has advanced over the years and, since its time on the wrists of jazz great Miles Davis, filmmaker enfant terrible Serge Gainsbourg or racing legends Jim Clark and…
When Patek Philippe first tasked designer Gerald Genta with the creation of the Nautilus, all former conventions went out of the window. To some, the creation of a shockingly sporty steel watch by a traditional luxury brand like Patek seemed almost grotesque. What’s more, it brazenly went against the trends of its time by putting…
Whereas many brands of traditional mechanical watchmaking try to adopt new smart technology approaches, the renowned Maison Vacheron Constantin holds on to classical values. At SIHH 2018 Geneva’s oldest watch Manufacture (established 1755) introduces three new timepieces called FIFTYSIX and inspired by Vacheron Constantin’s important and iconic watch from 1956. The Vacheron Constantin 6073 –…
It is one of the biggest privileges of our time: To have space to ourselves. To enjoy the wideness. To become one with nature, rather than bumping into masses of people in an overcrowded city. This is how life was long before the current world crisis, and will probably become an even bigger and more…
It has recently become quite obvious throughout the watch industry that many brands dig deep in their archives and recall on their heritage. But why does everyone seem to wallow in memory of the old times? It is probably just an instinctively reaction in times of change, and without doubt the watch industry – just…
Before considering the best green dial watches of 2024 thus far, let's start with some context. Historians have long defined different eras through time frames containing common characteristics. In the watch world, to give an obvious example, you could say that the pocket watch era spanned from the 16th to 20th century. Meanwhile, the birth…
As a somewhat seasoned purveyor of the watch industry by now, I would personally assert that Vacheron Constantin’s Les Cabinotiers is one of the absolute highest watchmaking departments on the planet. Over the years, the Swiss horology house’s unique creations division has produced some of the most complex watches of all time, blending groundbreaking horological…