The new Breitling Premier – a watch line for the stylish shore leave
Shortly after the watch community started to calm down again, BREITLING CEO Georges Kern comes up with the next surprise. A collection that at first sight doesn’t seem to fit to the usual look of BREITLING watches, as the ‘Premier’ line is simple and elegant. No slide ruler, no oversized bezel as we know them from the striking pilots- and divers-watches of the brand – but slim cases and discrete dial-design instead.
Discrete – the new Breitling Premier Chronograph 42
Everyone who is familiar with the brands history knows that the ‘Premier’ plays an important role for the brand. Georges Kern has not eliminated the old watch design of BREITLING as many criticize, but he finally awakes the brand from its decades long sleep, takes into account every single collection, modernizes them and fills long forgotten watch lines with new life. Beyond this, the brand very well knows about the relevance of the clients that are extremely interested in vintage watches, and serves them.
Stylish – the Breitling Premier Automatic 40
In 1915 BREITLING patented their first chronograph with a start/stop pusher at 2 o’clock. The Art Deco inspired watch was the first wristwatch of the brand and still had a lot in common with a pocket watch. In 1932 Willy Breitling took over and in 1933 introduced the first chronograph as we still know it today. Basically the modern great grandfather of the chronograph – with start/stop pusher at 2 o’clock and a second pusher for the reset-function at 4 o’clock.
From Artdeco watches to modern Chronographs
In the 1930s and 1940s Willy Breitling developed mainly cockpit watches for the Royal Air Force. At that time the watch expert was widely appreciated for his high-quality and reliable timepieces, especially for military- and pilot-watches. During war time the chronograph for the wrist became more and more popular and hence in 1938 the BREITLING chronographs 734 & 765 were developed. They were the first harbingers of the ‘Premier’ collection, however they primarily served as reliable tool watches at that time.
The first Premier watch by Breitling – the Ref. 734 from 1943
But in these political unstable times Willy Breitling also craved for some normalcy. Hence the ‘Premier’ was established, a fashionable watch that would also allow a form of escape from the terrible impact of the global conflict. The ‘Premier’ was an expression of optimism, a watch that in the beginning was solely used for its functionality, but now became more and more a fashionable product. Ever since then the ‘Premier’ mainly stayed on the ground and added a watch for a stylish shore leave to the portfolio, next to the existing fields of air and water. In a way, Willy Breitling was obsessed with the good style of a man. He once said: “When a man puts on his watch, it is the unmistakable stamp of impeccable taste”. The ‘Premier’ however never lost its technical approach and the name literally stands for function ‘first’ and for ‘first-class’ materials.
Breitling Premier Ref. 797 from 1947
The original ‚Premier’ timepieces with their 36- to 38-millimetres cases were little smaller than the familiar tool watches. They were often crafted from gold and offered with a leather strap. However, Willy Breitling stayed true to his brand-slogan to produce ‘instruments for professionals’ and hence the ‘Premier’ watches were equipped with the highest degree of technology that BREITLING can offer.
A very well preserved Breitling Premier Ref. 760 from 1944
The new models too unite aesthetic and technology. The Premier B01 Chronograph 42 lineis equipped with the BREITLING in-house calibre 01 and is the flagship of the new collection. The calibre 01 is known to be one of the best mechanical movements in the world and offers a power reserve of 70 hours.
Aesthetic meets technology – the Premier B01 Chronograph 42 with a Breitling in-house calibre 01
The new ‚Premier’ collection is divided into five different series with different versions within it. The Premier B01 Chronograph 42, Premier Chronograph 42, Premier Automatic 40, Premier Automatic Day & Date 40 and the Premier B01 Chronograph 42 Bentley British Racing Green. The Premier B01 Chronograph 42, and the Premier Chronograph 42 evoke BREITLING’s elegant watches from the 1940s more than any other watch in the new collection.
The new Premier B01 Chronograph 42 design comes closest to the original watches from 1943
In this collection the dials are striking aesthetical. They shimmer blue, anthracite or silver that are also used for the new Navitimer 1 and Navitimer 8 watches that have been introduced at the start of this year.
Special edition – Breitling Premier B01 Chronograph 42 Bentley in British Racing Green
Another watch with a dial in ‘Racing Green’ has been dedicated to the long partnership with Bentley (and also houses the calibre 01). You can choose between straps in stainless steel, nubuck or alligator leather in brown, black or blue, depending on the watch type.
The Hamilton story starts in 1982 in in the U.S. city of Lancaster, Pennsylvania. At a time when the country further extended their infrastructure with rail transport, also the number of accidents increased, as time keeping was not always precise enough. Hamilton made itself a name with accurate pocket watches and became famous as "The…
The decade of the 1950s was a crucial period for music – and it was also a golden age for watchmaking. Cliff Richards produced his first songs in the notorious Abbey Road Studios as did the Beatles little later. Vacheron Constantin introduced their first automatic watch (Ref. 6073) in 1956 which today lives on in…
When Patek Philippe first tasked designer Gerald Genta with the creation of the Nautilus, all former conventions went out of the window. To some, the creation of a shockingly sporty steel watch by a traditional luxury brand like Patek seemed almost grotesque. What’s more, it brazenly went against the trends of its time by putting…
It’s been another extraordinary year for us all, and the watch world is no exception. That is why the Swisswatches team sat down once more to comprise a list of our top watches of 2022. From anniversary models to world records, we are presenting you 24 special highlights to emerge from the ever-surprising Swiss watch…
The Radiomir, a watch classic that was originally designed for functional use, has since established itself as a style element in the everyday life of many fashionable men. It is a model that is directly linked to the brand Panerai: the cushion-shaped case, the sandwich design of the dial and typical looped lugs that were used…
Why do mechanical timepieces captivate so many people? The Patek Philippe Rare Handcrafts 2024, a particularly exclusive collection of unique wristwatches, pocket watches and table clocks, undoubtedly answers this question. The boundary-pushing line is undoubtedly at the forefront of the Swiss watchmaking industry. Each incredibly high-quality timepiece embodies all that makes watches so exciting: craftsmanship…
During our last conversation about six months ago, Panerai CEO Jean-Marc Pontroué surprised us with his ambitious intention to launch a 100 percent recycled mechanical watch. Now, shortly prior to the unveiling of the brand's latest pieces at Watches & Wonders 2021, we caught up with him once again. There was one key question to…
To speak of a modest-looking watch would be inappropriate for such a complex model with such a long history. However, if one looks at the versions currently representing the collection, the latest Patek Philippe perpetual calendar chronograph is probably the most discreet version of them all. Yellow gold with a silver-opaline leaf – this is…
The Louvre, Paris. Once the residence of French kings, it is now the most visited museum in the world. It is home to a collection consisting of several hundred thousand works, based on the passion for art by a few. Among them are King Francis I (1515 - 1547), a patron of Leonardo da Vinci,…
The Navitimer from Breitling is turning 70! Originally conceived as a tool watch with which pilots could still perform flight calculations using a completely analogue system, it has advanced over the years and, since its time on the wrists of jazz great Miles Davis, filmmaker enfant terrible Serge Gainsbourg or racing legends Jim Clark and…
It looks almost that the greatest density of magnum wine bottles is based in the southern part of Styria. They like to think big. An area, near the Slovenian border, where viniculture forms the landscape and which is famous for one of the best Sauvignon Blanc in the world. At Porsche they have always, and…
In 2011, Cartier acquired a 17th century farmhouse a stone’s throw away from its watch manufacture in La Chaux-de-Fonds, lovingly renovated it, and created an atelier in which the maison prioritises traditional craftsmanship. The renovation work was completed in 2014; gem-setters and enamellers promptly moved in to bring the maison's most breathtaking creations to life,…
While visiting the Breguet manufacture in Vallée de Joux some weeks ago, we certainly didn’t want to miss the movement assembly Atelier where the Maison’s tourbillon complications come alive. It was Abraham-Louis Breguet who invented this regulator over 200 years ago and the manufacture today is the world’s biggest producer. They have seven tourbillon families…