Cartier Santos de Cartier – a soft facelift for an icon
„I fly to escape the people and to be able to think“, once said the Brazilian inventor and aviation pioneer Alberto Santos-Dumont. This attitude nearly ended up deadly for him at the beginning of the 20th century, when he stroked the roof of a building with his airship and only managed to rescue himself in the very last minute. So life gave him many more years of thinking and inventing, which finally lead to the first zeppelin, the first helicopter as well as the first monoplane and biplane. And somehow also the Santos from Cartier.
Facelift – the case design of the new Santos has been reworked
Louis Cartier and Alberto Santos-Dumont met for the first time in 1900 and became close friends. In 1901 the Aviator complained about the difficulties to read a pocket watch during flights. Louis Cartier started to work meticulously on a solution. Three years later the first modern wristwatch with a leather strap was born. Of course Cartier named it after his friend “Santos”. Since 1904 the Santos is indispensable at Cartier and became a true icon as well as the Tank, which was developed little later. At the beginning of this year, Cartier has introduced a few new watches, which are named “Santos de Cartier”.
Santos de Cartier in bicolor
The novelties have kept their distinctive square case design. However, they have received some subtle refinements. The striking square bezel has received smooth edges and looks like it’s connected seamless onto the strap. Cartier wanted to create a unit between case and strap, which also has an affect on the wearing comfort. It snuggles really well around the wrist.
Santos de Cartier with an elegant calf leather strap
Cartier has done a lot of research on ergonomics in order to find the perfect size and weight for ideal wearing comfort. With their patented SmartLink-system you can adjust the length without any tool. Every slat owns a small pusher – once pressed, a tiny mounting clip ejects and you can easily remove or add a slat. The straps also have a QuickSwitch-system, a mechanism placed underneath to easily and quickly change the straps. You have a choice of Stainless Steel, Gold, Calf- or Alligator leather.
The straps can be changed easily with the QuickSwitch system
It is surprising that nowadays most people identify a Santos with a Stainless Steel strap, as it was originally the first wristwatch with a leather strap. It was not until 1978 when the Santos was first produced with this unique steel strap. The screws on it are an aesthetic continuance of the case. The square case was initially inspired by the Parisian geometry and represents in a wider sense the four pillars of the Eiffel tower. The eight screws on the bezel reflect the architecture from that time – the screwed steel pillars that were visible on many buildings.
Santos de Cartier 2018
The new watches are available in two sizes: 35.1mm and 39.8mm. They come in Stainless Steel, Bicolor with Stainless Steel and Yellow-Gold, full Yellow-Gold or Rosé-Gold and a variety of colours for the leather straps. Parts of the calibre 1847 MC have a Nickel-Phosphor-Alloy to protect them against magnetic fields. Also the inner part of the case has been covered with a paramagnetic alloy. It would be exciting to see which watch Alberto Santos-Dumont would wear today.
At the time when the collection was first launched in the 1960th it was still called Admiral’s Cup, named after the legendary sailing regatta that took place from 1957 to 2003. The collection soon became famous as the ‘nautical-legend’ and was the first ever waterproof square wristwatch. In the 1980th the dial received its striking flags that are…
Some watches simply command respect. The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Nonantième is one such watch. The horology house's Reverso model is always sleek, suave, and attractive. This unconventional piece, however, takes high watchmaking to a whole new level. Area of expertise: The Reverso and complications Jaeger-LeCoultre is no stranger to creating complicated Reverso watches. The first…
As always, Chopard's latest creations are well worth looking at in detail, as they offer a glimpse into what the brand is calling the aesthetic future of the company. Seamlessly blending refined elegance with the precision of guilloché craftsmanship, the latest timepieces set a new standard for timeless sophistication. The L.U.C Lunar One and the…
The story of CORUMs Golden Bridge is exceptional. A young watchmaker from the idyllic town of La Caux-de-Fonds called Vincent Calabrese knocked on CORUMs door one day to introduce his newest invention: an unfamiliar looking baguette movement. He probably didn’t know that this will from then on be the movement of CORUMs flagship complication model…
The twin-spired cathedral bells chime over the square by Cologne's main square. The warm scent of bakeries wafts across the space as commuters dash past, fixated upon catching their train from the adjacent central station. Locals sprawl themselves across the steps leading up to the Gothic cathedral, incidentally Germany's most visited landmark, while businessmen stride…
If, in these demanding times, you are searching for beauty, good in the world, and proof of humanity's constant striving for improvement, look no further. The new Reference 5236P marks the return of a pure perpetual calendar into the Patek Philippe collection. For the first time, we have a wristwatch displaying the day, date and…
The new stars at Swiss watch-brand Carl F. Bucherer are not again Hollywood actors or sport enthusiasts as brands usually commit as ambassadors to represent their products, but 188 manta rays! The reason is mainly the brands support in The Manta Trust, a UK registered charity committed to protecting and ensuring the survival of manta rays…
Since its inception in 1995, Roger Dubuis has been a pioneer in the luxury watchmaking industry, continuously pushing boundaries and redefining standards. Through (almost) it all, the company has been home to Gregory Bruttin, who first came to Roger Dubuis in 2002. We caught up with Bruttin to discuss the significant changes in the company’s…
As you might have heard, Patek Philippe invested 600 million Swiss francs into its new factory building in Plan-les-Ouates, which was completed earlier this year. If you are wondering what such a large sum was spent on, and how the Stern family is envisaging the balancing act between preserving tradition and looking to the future,…
The American Florentine Ariosto Jones founded the brand IWC in 1868 and he wanted to pair Swiss craftsmanship in watchmaking with American manufacturing technologies. IWC became a specialist in creating excellent pocket watches. Even though the brand’s initials stand for ‘International’ Watch Company and was founded by an American citizen, it always was – and…
‘Very rare’ – thus H. Moser & Cie. defines itself. Yet the Schaffhausen-based horology house is now bringing forth an even rarer set of watches than usual in cooperation with the world's largest watch and jewellery retailer Bucherer, in the form of a beautiful Pioneer Tourbillon and two unique Endeavour Concept Minute Repeater Tourbillons. While…
As an author who has spent over twenty years writing about mechanical wristwatches, being tucked away for two hours in a shadowy wine cellar in Cologne’s old town with thirty potential watch clients is truly exciting. It’s not just the rare wines they savoured together – including a Bordeaux from 1988 – but the open…
Audemars Piguet dropped some crazy new Royal Oaks this month, and whilst they did take the spotlight, there were other releases too. Seven new watches were added to the Code 11.59 collection, which this year celebrates its fifth anniversary. Over the last five years, AP has been slowly refining the Code 11.59 collection by playing with a number of different variables,…