For the brand with Roman roots, founded in 1884, LVMH Watch Week in Milan is almost a home game. Fittingly, those Italian origins are clearly reflected in the new releases. All four novelties have much to offer, even if their strengths are not immediately apparent at first glance. Their finely engineered movements, secure bracelet constructions, and extraordinary dials, in particular, merit closer attention.

Bulgari: Small sizes with great performance

In recent years, Bulgari has established itself as a manufacturer of compact movements. The mechanical calibres Solotempo BVL191, Baby Tourbillon BVL150, Piccolissimo BVP100, and Lady Solotempo Automatic BVS100 are characterised by their streamlined design and enable the production of small case formats without compromising on technical sophistication and precision.

The Baby Tourbillon BVL150, with a 40-hour power reserve and dimensions of 22 x 18 x 3.65 millimetres, is one of the smallest tourbillon calibres in the world. Bulgari designed the hand-wound movement specifically for the unique case shape of the Serpenti models and unveiled it for the first time in 2020.

Six years later, the three other calibres are the focus of the new products at LVMH Watch Week: the Piccolissimo BVP100 in the Maglia Milanaise Monete, the Lady Solotempo Automatic BVS100 in the Tubogas Manchette and the Serpenti Seduttori Automatic, as well as the Solotempo BVL191 in the Lvcea Notte di Luce.

Maglia Milanaise Monete

1.9 grams: that’s all it takes to ensure the precise movement of the Maglia Milanaise Monete. The Piccolissimo BVP100 is a hand-wound movement with a 30-hour power reserve and hour and minute functions. It measures 13.5 x 2.5 millimetres and, with its 102 components, weighs less than two grams.

The in-house manufacture calibre made its debut in 2022 and now appears in a new version with crown winding. It is visible through the sapphire crystal caseback of the Maglia Milanaise Monete’s rose gold case. Though classified as a so-called secret watch, the Maglia Milanaise Monete is anything but meant to be worn discreetly. After all, this new edition of a model from the 1960s is adorned with an authentic antique silver coin decorated with the likeness of the Roman emperor Caracalla (211-217).

The coin, with which Bulgari celebrates its roots in the Eternal City, serves as a hinged cover for the round white mother-of-pearl dial in a rose gold case. Twelve diamond hour markers, 40 brilliant-cut diamonds on the octagonal coin cover and additional diamonds on the crown provide abundant brilliance. Rose gold-plated hands reveal the precise time when the watch is opened.

With the Maglia Milanaise Monete, Bulgari is showcasing the traditional Milanese bracelet weaving technique for the first time. Crafted from rose gold, the structure developed by Milanese goldsmiths during the Renaissance features interwoven gold threads and is the same width as the case, allowing the watch to nestle elegantly on any wrist.

Tubogas Manchette

This LVMH novelty from Bulgari features the Lady Solotempo Automatic BVS100, launched in early 2025, which is also a real lightweight at just five grams. Its 102 parts are spread over a diameter of 19 millimetres and a height of 3.9 millimetres.

Despite its compact dimensions, the maximum power reserve encompasses 50 hours. The Tubogas Manchette‘s yellow gold case features a sapphire crystal caseback that allows you to observe the Lady Solotempo Automatic BVS100 at work. The dial, on the other hand, almost fades into the background, even though it is encrusted with diamonds and surrounded by them. Amidst all this brilliance, the yellow gold-coated hour and minute hands serve as a reminder of the functional purpose of the Tubogas Manchette: to tell the time. The bracelet plays the leading role in the Tubogas Manchette, reminding Bulgari of its own beginnings as a silversmith and artisan workshop.

In addition, the Tubogas models from the 1970s served as a source of inspiration for the current reinterpretation, which picks up on their bold design. The aesthetic was characterised by bracelets made of wound metal strips that ran in a continuous spiral around the wrist. The design is reminiscent of a gas pipe (Italian: tubo del gas) – hence the name Tubogas.

In 2026, Bulgari is reimagining these spiral twists in yellow gold and with lavish diamond (11.98 ct.) and coloured stone settings (citrine, rubellite, peridot, amethyst, topaz, spessartine), which extend seamlessly across the entire cuff.

Serpenti Seduttori Automatic

The iconic Serpenti Seduttori model was also equipped with the new Lady Solotempo Automatic BVS100 manufacture movement last year. You can find detailed background information here.

For this year’s LVMH Watch Week, Bulgari is combining the compact manufacture movement with two new versions of the legendary Serpenti snake model. First introduced in 1948, the watch gained particular fame when Elizabeth Taylor wore it while filming Cleopatra in Rome in 1962. This made it an iconic timepiece in the brand’s range.

The new models with 34 mm rose gold cases and sapphire crystal casebacks are available with white opaline dials or green malachite. Both versions feature rose gold-plated hands and hour markers, flanked by 36 brilliant-cut diamonds and a diamond-set crown with a rubellite cabochon.

The opaline version of the new Serpenti Seduttori Automatic features a bracelet made of hexagonal, scale-like elements set with 117 brilliant-cut diamonds. The Malachite version, on the other hand, relies on pure rose gold as an elegant counterpart.

Lvcea Notte di Luce

With the latest additions to the LVMH Watch Week collection, introduced in 2014, Bulgari is focusing on Japanese craftsmanship, complementing its Swiss-Italian expertise. It’s all about urushi. This traditional, glossy lacquer finish has been used as a decorative art form in Japan for centuries, particularly in the manufacture of bowls, jewellery, and furniture.

However, watch manufacturers also frequently employ this technique, as is the case with Bulgari’s new Lvcea Notte di Luce models. These are also embellished with the traditional East Asian decoration and inlay technique known as raden, which means ‘sprinkled picture’ and involves embedding tiny fragments of mother-of-pearl or gold into the lacquer.

Limited to 80 pieces, the Lvcea Notte di Luce dials feature pieces of mother-of-pearl set in black urushi lacquer, creating an ever-changing, shimmering play of light. Each of these unique mosaics requires sixty days of work to complete.

The Solotempo BVL191 automatic movement with a 42-hour power reserve is housed in a 33-millimetre rose gold and stainless steel case with a diamond-set bezel. The bracelet is also two-tone.


bulgari.com

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