Zenith is relaunching its legendary A386 as the Chronomaster Original, giving it a permanent place in the collection. The original Zenith A386 was one of the first stainless-steel watches to be equipped with the El Primero calibre. This was the first automatic chronograph movement to use a high frequency of 5 Hz. Zenith already presented a reinterpretation of this watch in 2019, however this was only available in precious metal. Now, however, we have a series production with a steel case. The new Zenith Chronomaster Original is available in three versions, which differ in terms of their dials, case materials, straps and bracelets.
The history of the Zenith El Primero A386
Although automatic movements became increasingly popular from 1940 onwards, no watch manufacture had yet succeeded in developing a self-winding chronograph. In 1962, Zenith took on the task. However, the innovative calibre was to fulfil even more specifications. It had to be able to measure tenths of a second in order to become the most accurate automatic chronograph of the time. For this, the frequency of the balance had to be 5 Hz, which led to other difficulties. Nevertheless, Zenith succeeded in creating such a movement, which henceforth bore the name El Primero – meaning, of course, “the first”. The Zenith El Primero A386 became the first watch to be equipped with this special movement.
Case & Materials
Zenith Chronomaster Original in Steel
Zenith adheres almost entirely to the lines of the original when it comes to the design of the case. Accordingly, the watch has a stainless-steel case with a diameter of 38 mm and no bezel. This is complemented by pump-style pushers and faceted lugs.
Meanwhile, raised, domed sapphire crystal protects the front. Unlike the Zenith A386, the brand has opted for a visible caseback, which reveals the mechanics within. Last but not least, the El Primero Chronomaster Original has water resistance to 50 m.
Zenith Chronomaster Original in Gold
The two stainless-steel versions are also joined by this piece, which comes with a case made of 18-carat rose gold. The case diameter here is also 38 mm. Apart from the material, however, this case is no different from the other two. For this model, though, Zenith has given it a slightly different dial.
Dials
The three versions also come with three different dials. The white dial is the most authentic, as it presents the counters in shades of grey and blue. There is also a black inner scale around the dial, which divides the dial into 100 time units. Similarly, the white tenths of a second scale allows the elapsed time to be read in fractions of a second. For this purpose, Zenith has decided against the blade-shaped chronograph hand of the A386 and included a straight red hand.
The second variation has a “reverse panda” dial and dispenses with coloured counters in favour of the black and white look. In contrast to the above variation, the trapezoidal date window at 4:30 also remains black. The indices and main hands are coated with beige Super-LumiNova, while the chronograph hand shines in white.
The dial of the Chronomaster Original with a gold case has coloured counters on a white background. The indices and main hands are different; here, they are gold-plated, faceted and coated with Super-LumiNova. The hands of the subdials also appear in the same shade. Interestingly, the chronograph hand remains red, while the date window between 4 and 5 o’clock is white.
The Movement
While the exterior of the watch is inspired by the historic A386, the interior is equipped with the modern El Primero 3600 calibre, which of course offers the high frequency of 5 Hz, enabling the measurements to a tenth of a second. The manufacture does not skimp on technology either, and employs a blued column wheel to control the chronograph. It also has a power reserve of 60 hours. The movement is visible through the caseback, through which the winding rotor with the Zenith star is directly noticeable.
Bracelets & Straps
The Chronomaster Original with a white dial is available with either a stainless-steel bracelet with a double-folding clasp or a blue calfskin strap with a triple-folding clasp. Similarly, the “reverse panda” version comes with the same stainless-steel bracelet or a beige calfskin strap. The rose-gold case, meanwhile, is only available with a brown calfskin strap with a rose-gold, triple-folding clasp.
Price & Availability of the Zenith Chronomaster Original
The new Zenith Chronomaster Original is now available in Zenith boutiques, at selected jewellers, and on the Zenith website. The two editions with steel bracelets cost 8,800 euros, or 8,300 euros with the leather straps. Finally, the Chronomaster Original in the gold case is available for 18,600 euros.
White dial:
03.3200.3600/69.M3200
03.3200.3600/69.C902 Black dial:
03.3200.3600/21.M3200
03.3200.3600/21.C903 Gold case:
18.3200.3600/69.C901
CASE MATERIAL
Stainless steel or 18 carat rose gold
DIMENSIONS
Diameter: 38 mm
Height: 12.60 mm
WATER RESISTANCE
5 bar (~50 m)
DIAL
White with coloured counters or black with silver counters
STRAP/BRACELET
Steel case:
Stainless steel bracelet with stainless steel double folding clasp
or
Blue/brown calfskin strap with stainless steel triple-folding clasp Gold case:
Brown calfskin strap with rose gold triple-folding clasp
As the main sponsor of the Les Voiles De St Barth sailing regatta, Richard Mille presents the limited edition RM 60-01 Les Voiles De St Barth. Because the event cannot take place this year, the brand reaffirms its commitment and intends to donate all proceeds from the sale of an RM 60-01 to initiatives on…
For Hublot, the possibilities when it comes to materials seem limitless. Founded in 1980, the watch manufacturer is known for its creativity in this department, from tirelessly tinkering with new gold alloys to refining other innovative composite materials. Now the Swiss manufacture has done it again and launched a new case material, at least within…
The Flieger Verus is Stowa's modern interpretation of the classic pilot's watch. Now, with the Stowa Flieger Verus 40 Baumuster B, a variant with an alternative dial featuring a central hour circle is coming to the market. The design harks back to the year 1942 when the Baumuster B-style dials were put into production. Case…
With the Panerai Luminor Due Luna, the Italians are presenting a moon phase display for the first time in the Luminor Due collection. Initially, four variants will be released: PAM01179, PAM01180, PAM01181 and PAM01301. In addition to three steel cases, there is also a model made of the in-house Goldtech. The four newcomers present the…
Autumn is slowly beginning to reveal its colours, and with the new season comes a fresh palette for our wardrobes. Purple has been chosen as the trend colour for autumn on the catwalks and the watchmaking world is also embracing the shade. For the first time, the Wild One Skeleton 42 mm is now available…
With the Olympic 1932 Chrono Chime and the Speedmaster Chrono Chime, Omega launched two evocative timepieces yesterday in Los Angeles. Both watches carry a high degree of historical heritage. Swisswatches was in attendance, reporting live from LA for this milestone in watchmaking, and was able to take a closer look at the two watches on…
With the Oris ProPilot X Calibre 400, the Hölstein-based manufacturer is presenting three new pilot's watches equipped with the Calibre 400. The watches appear in a titanium case and have a matching bracelet made of the same material. They come with dials in grey, blue or salmon. The 39 mm Titanium Case The case of…
To mark its 160th anniversary, Zenith gifts the watchmaking world a new Chronomaster Original, housed in stainless steel and with a blue dial. The line, launched in 2021, represents the legitimate heir to Zenith’s 1969 A386 – one of the first chronographs equipped with the legendary high-frequency El Primero calibre in stainless steel. An icon…
Inspired by one of the brand’s most famous pocket watches, which already won a gold medal in 1889 on the Paris world fair, Girard-Perregaux now introduces the La Esmeralda Tourbillon in white gold. Since developing the first tourbillon in 1860, the manufacture kept innovating new techniques and over time created a mechanism, that was not only functional…
Audemars Piguet has unveiled the Code 11.59 Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon in sand gold. This watch, featuring a 38mm case, marks the first time the brand offers the complication in this diameter. It showcases the ultra-thin Calibre 2968 (RD#3) movement, which was introduced in 2022 in small Royal Oak models. The watch is crafted from 18-carat…
Created in collaboration with nature photographer Kourosh Keynejad, the Zenith DEFY Extreme Desert captures the atmosphere of barren desert landscapes. It is the first model in a series inspired by harsh environments. The watch has a special case with falcon's eye, a dark quartz gemstone. Inside operates an El Primero movement with no less than…
When Piaget presented the world’s thinnest watch, the Altiplano Ultimate Concept, six years ago, it showed the world exactly what masterful, high-precision work can look like. With the invention of the caliber 9P, Piaget can already draw on 67 years of experience in the manufacturing of ultra-thin movements. To celebrate its 150th anniversary, the brand…
The All Dial collection from Mido is celebrating its 20th anniversary. To mark the occasion, the house is launching a limited special edition that celebrates its connection to architecture. The Mido All Dial 20th Anniversary Inspired By Architecture puts a building in the spotlight for the first time. The new limited special edition is inspired…