There is something inherently poetic about letting one’s thoughts wander to other places. While dinner may be just beginning elsewhere or the working day getting underway, time passes differently everywhere. Van Cleef & Arpels explores precisely this idea with a new edition of its dual time zone timepiece, first introduced in 2014. The Midnight Heure d’ici & Heure d’ailleurs (‘Time here and time elsewhere’) combines fine craftsmanship with the display of two time zones, turning the passage of time into a visual experience.

An elegant rose gold case

The case of the Midnight Heure d’ici & Heure d’ailleurs measures 38 mm in diameter and is crafted from rose gold. With its warm hue, the polished and satin-brushed metal harmonises beautifully with the glossy brown dial and the rose gold details set upon it. The crown, too, establishes a visual link to the dial, with its lozenge pattern echoing the Piqué motif. In keeping with Van Cleef & Arpels’ characteristic ‘Poetry of Time’ philosophy, a dreamlike engraving adorns the closed caseback. Arranged diagonally across the upper section are a guilloché sun and the model name in italic script. Beneath this lies a depiction of the moon accompanied by a starry sky and the name of the Maison.

Craftsmanship down to the finest detail

In contrast to the light-coloured dial of the 2023 Pierre Arpels Heure d’ici & Heure d’ailleurs (more on this here), the Midnight Heure d’ici & Heure d’ailleurs appears in a rich, saturated shade of brown. The amber-toned dial shimmers in warm or cool nuances depending on the light – an effect that is far from coincidental. Behind it lies one of the most demanding métiers d’art: enamelling.

To create the dial, Van Cleef & Arpels enlisted the expertise of a Geneva-based atelier. The desired shade was entirely new to the Maison’s palette: a warm colour with cool undertones reminiscent of certain gemstones. After extensive testing, they achieved a distinctive amber-brown tone whose nuances shift with the light. The dial’s radiance is further enhanced by a mirror-polished gold base that reflects light back through the enamel.

However, this was only part of the challenge. The enamel also had to incorporate two decorative elements that subtly referenced the Maison’s signature design codes: a Piqué motif and a guilloché pattern that radiated outwards to the edge. Creating these on enamel was particularly challenging, as it required enamel with two different levels of colour intensity. The thickness of the layer influences both the hue and the so-called ‘chatoyance’ – the way light plays within the material. For the relief motifs, the artisans drew inspiration from glassblowing techniques that had been specially adapted for watchmaking.

As mentioned earlier, the enamel work involves a complex process comprising several firing stages. Initially, the enamel was worked for over 30 hours at temperatures below 500°C to ensure an even colour distribution. This was followed by two further firings at temperatures exceeding 1,000°C, which removed air bubbles and stabilised the material. The surface was then shaped by hand using a stamping tool before the final firing, which prepared it for its final form.

The patterns on the refined enamel dial provide a harmonious backdrop for the asymmetrical rose gold display of time. The rose gold apertures for the jumping hours of each time zone are positioned at approximately 11 o’clock and 5 o’clock, with the hours displayed in white numerals against a dark background. The upper aperture indicates local time (heure d’ici), while the lower aperture shows the second time zone (heure d’ailleurs). The model name runs in italic script along the right-hand side between the two apertures. On the left is a scale with rose gold numerals that facilitates reading the retrograde minutes.

The Midnight Heure d’ici & Heure d’ailleurs movement

This minimalist display is powered by a mechanical self-winding movement featuring double jumping hours and a retrograde minute mechanism, in which the hand returns to its starting position upon reaching the 60-minute mark.

This complex combination of mechanisms was developed in collaboration with Agenhor (Atelier Genevois d’Horlogerie), whose founder, the renowned Geneva watchmaker Jean-Marc Wiederrecht, specialises in ultra-thin and retrograde movements.

The two discs for the jumping hours and retrograde minute hand are connected via sector gears, enabling synchronised display of the time. The crown is used to set the hours and minutes for both time zones, and the movement offers a power reserve of 65 hours.

Strap, price, & availability

The elegance of the Midnight Heure d’ici & Heure d’ailleurs continues in its black alligator leather strap. No official pricing for this timepiece has yet been announced.


vancleefarpels.com


Characteristics

BRAND

Van Cleef & Arpels

MODEL

Midnight Heure d’ici & Heure d’ailleurs

REFERENCE

n.a.

CASE MATERIAL

Rose gold

DIMENSIONS

38 mm

WATER RESISTANCE

n.a.

DIAL

Amber-coloured enamel dial, rose gold jumping hour windows at 11 o’clock and 5 o’clock, minute scale, rose gold retrograde minute hand

STRAP/BRACELET

Black alligator leather strap

MOVEMENT

n.a.

MOVEMENT TYPE

Automatic

POWER RESERVE

65 hours

FREQUENCY

n.a.

FUNCTIONS

Jumping hours with dual time zone, retrograde minute display

PRICE

n.a.

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