Nomos Orion Gold Neomatik New Black: 18-Carat Gold Instead of New Technology

With the Orion Gold neomatik new black, Nomos Glashütte is expanding its range of gold watches to include a model with a black dial. The case shape and automatic calibre remain unchanged; the main new feature is the combination of 18-carat gold, a black dial and gold hands.

The Orion is undoubtedly one of Nomos Glashütte’s most understated designs. Since 1992, the Orion collection’s dial has been characterised by delicate baton hour markers, a small seconds hand and a large, uncluttered surface. In black and gold, the latest version now looks even more classic.

Gold instead of steel: what’s new about Ref. 350

Since 2024, there has already been a directly comparable stainless steel version in the form of the Orion neomatik new black Ref. 396. A comparison with the new Ref. 350 is natural, as both watches measure 36.4 millimetres in diameter and 8.5 millimetres in height, feature the DUW 3001 automatic calibre and have a black-plated dial with gold hour markers. The main new features of the Ref. 350 are the 18-carat gold case and the gold hands.

The key difference lies in the choice of materials. Whilst the Ref. 396 features a stainless steel case with rhodium-plated hands, the Ref. 350 combines a three-piece case made from recycled 18-carat gold with a solid gold crown and gold hands. The minute track and lettering on the new Orion Gold neomatik new black remain as subtle, light-coloured contrasts against the black dial.

There is one practical drawback compared to the steel version when it comes to water resistance: at 30 metres, the gold version offers only splash protection, whilst the Ref. 396 is rated to 50 metres.

You can find out more about the Nomos Glashütte manufactory and how it operates here in our article.

The Orion in the expanding gold range

The Orion is one of the models with which Nomos Glashütte launched its first collection in 1992. The first collection deliberately focused on stainless steel and mechanical movements, whilst remaining comparatively affordable. With the switch to solid gold, the Orion silhouette – which has undergone only subtle changes since then – has moved into a significantly higher price segment.

Alongside the two light gold models, the Nomos Orion Gold neomatik new black is now available for the first time with a black dial. Ref. 348 features a white silver-plated dial and temperature-blued hands, whilst Ref. 349 doré combines the same light-coloured dial with gold hands. The new variant, on the other hand, adopts the black dial of the stainless steel models, thereby providing the strongest contrast within the trio.

With the new Orion, Nomos is now continuing to expand its range of gold watches. In addition to the Tangente, the Ludwig and Tetra are now also available in yellow gold, as is the Metro in rose gold. The Orion Gold neomatik new black forms part of this development, though its black dial sets it apart significantly from the predominantly light-coloured gold models.

Familiar proportions with a black dial

With a diameter of 36.4 millimetres, a height of 8.5 millimetres and a lug-to-lug width of 45 millimetres, the Orion Gold neomatik new black retains the familiar proportions of the Orion neomatik. In particular, the slim profile meets the requirements of a dress watch, whilst the long, tapered lugs visually elongate the round case. The distance between the lugs is 18 millimetres.

The domed dial is protected by a sapphire crystal that is also domed and features an anti-reflective coating on the inside. The sapphire crystal caseback also follows the curved shape of the case, preserving the lens-like silhouette characteristic of the Orion. Despite its automatic winding mechanism, the watch is barely any thicker than many comparable hand-wound models.

The slender gold hands and applied hour markers stand out clearly against the black dial, whilst a delicate, light-coloured minute track defines the outer edge. The small seconds at six o’clock is not recessed but integrated directly into the main dial, giving the entire surface of the dial an open appearance despite the strong colour contrast. The design is completed by a black, rimmed strap made from Horween Genuine Shell Cordovan.

Unlike the two lighter gold versions, the Orion new black is strictly limited to black and gold. Neither the blued hands nor the brown leather strap introduce any additional colour, so that the overall effect stems almost entirely from the contrast between black and gold.

The slim DUW 3001 automatic calibre

At its heart beats the DUW 3001, which Nomos introduced in 2015 as the first calibre in the neomatik range. The automatic movement has a diameter of 28.8 millimetres, but is only 3.2 millimetres thick, thus enabling the watch’s slim profile.

The calibre winds in both directions via its rotor and, in addition to a seconds stop, features the in-house Swing System, which consists of a balance wheel, balance spring, escape wheel and anchor, and sets the movement’s rhythm. The sapphire crystal case back reveals the Glashütte three-quarter plate and the temperature-blued screws; the movement is finely adjusted in six positions to ensure precise regulation. At around 43 hours, the power reserve is sufficient for everyday use, though it remains rather limited compared to many current automatic movements.

Price and availability

The Nomos Orion Gold neomatik new black costs 12,600 euros, which is the same price as the two light-coloured gold versions with reference numbers 348 and 349. The difference is significantly greater when compared to the Orion neomatik new black Ref. 396 in stainless steel, which costs 3,440 euros whilst having the same dimensions and the same calibre. The price difference of 9,160 euros is therefore solely due to the difference in materials. Ref. 350 is available via the Nomos online shop and from authorised retailers; the online shop currently quotes a delivery time of three working days.

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