According to company documents, Thierry Stern, Patek Philippe president still today tests all minute repeaters himself before they leave the manufacture. And to Stern, it’s not work but pure passion and pleasure. Patek Philippe has gained a special reputation in this field, not least by showing their savoir-faire with the ‘Grandmaster Chime’ from 2014 with its five chiming mechanisms.
This year, the manufacture expands its pilot watch ‘Calatrava Travel Time’ with an alarm function that is based on a minute repeater. They developed an entirely new movement, the highly complex calibre AL 30-660 SC FUS made of 574 components. The typical two timezone-display remains unchanged and is still displayed by two superimposed hour hands from the dial’s centre. Two small round apertures at 3 and 9 o’clock indicate the day / night display. To be able to offer a movement height of just 6.6 mm, the engineers have designed an entirely new integrated movement instead of simply putting an additional module on top. Due to a sophisticated timezone-mechanism, the power reserve is not affected while the pusher’s function is being operated. The alarm is indicated by a digital display below 12 o’clock. For that, the brand’s logo had to be replaced inside the date subdial at 6 o’clock. The alarm signal is struck by a hammer on a classic gong – the tiny play can also be watched through the open case back. So, for Thierry Stern, it is not just music for his ears, but also a pleasure for his eyes. Price: 204.050 Euros and comes with a case in platinum.
The new Alarm Travel Time Ref. 5520P-001
The price for reference 5170 might shoot up in the next couple of days. The reason: Patek Philippe will discontinue this popular Chronograph and replace it with the new reference 5172G. It houses the same movement but has been modified on the outside. And they seem to hold on to old values, however at the same time reach out to modern-sporty design features. The case – in white gold for the first time – has subtle vintage allure underscored by a sapphire-crystal ‘box’ glass and three-tier lugs. The protruding, round pushers, however, are the epitome of ultra-sporty Chronographs, but then again have a classic guilloche on the push side. The navy-blue dial and navy-blue calfskin leather strap have a fresh and modern touch. The contrasting syringe hands, however, make the watch look somehow old-fashioned. Inside runs the reliable column-wheel chronograph calibre CH29-535 PS, hand-wound with small second and a Gyromax balance. Price: 66.320 Euros and a little bit less expensive to its predecessor.
The new Chronograph Ref. 5172G-001 in white gold
The watch that according to a commercial slogan ‘can be equally worn to a wet suit as well as to a dinner jacket’ gets its original colour from 1976. At least the reference 5726/1A with Annual Calendar and Moon-phase. We are talking about the Nautilus in stainless steel with its distinctive blue dial grading from blue to black at the dial’s periphery. Just as beautiful to watch is the horizontal embossing on the dial. The date window has been positioned at 6 o’clock instead of 3 o’clock, sharing the space with the moon-phase display. It has aesthetical reasons for Patek Philippe showing the perfect symmetry in this order (also seen at the Annual Calendar Ref. 5396G). The calibre 324 S QA LU 24H/303 is based on its predecessor model 5711/1A and extended by an Annual Calendar and Moon-phase. The rotor is made of 21-carat gold – and since Patek decided to open up its case back, you get a beautiful view onto the manual finissage of movement parts with Patek Philippe Seal. The new Nautilus 5726/1A-014 is slightly bigger with a 40,5 mm case – the bracelet size was adjusted accordingly. Price: 41.320 Euros.
Blue is back – Nautilus Ref. 5726/1A-014 in stainless steel
Patek Philippe, also well known for their calendar functions, surprises this year with a new calendar feature. The new reference 5212A-001 has a useful weekly calendar with five hands emanating from the centre, indicating the different functions: seconds, minutes, hours, weekday and month. The hand indicating the month display also shows the week number by authentically reproduced handwritten characters printed onto the dial. The 53-graduation scale even considers years with an extra week, which occur every 5 to 6 years. The date is placed at 3 o’clock. To display the day of the week and the number of the current week, the manufacture developed a totally new semi-integrated mechanism, betted into a heavy stainless steel case. It is the first non-limited stainless steel version by Patek Philippe, and the first Calatrava steel watch ever. The new automatic movement 26-330 SCJ SE is based on the calibre 324 and was optimized all round. Price: 30.100 Euros.
Calatrava Weekly Calendar Ref. 5212A-001
Once again, back to Thierry Stern. When he had the idea for the brands very first regulator, he had a modern interpretation of the traditional regulator in mind. But no one in his team wanted it that way. He fought for it and finally in 2011 the Reference 5235 Annual Calendar Regulator was born, Maison’s first version in white gold with a silver-grey dial. This year, Thierry Stern and Patek Philippe present a roségold version ref. 5235/50R with a two-tone dial in graphite and ebony-black. The dial still has a beautiful vertical satin finish. The calibre 31-260 REG QA with self-winding mechanical movement was specially designed for this new model, incorporating a Pulsomat escapement and Spiromax balance spring in Silinvar – let’s say, a pretty modern Regulator. Price: 46.630 Euros.
A modern regulator – Regulator Annual Calendar Ref. 5235/50R-001
On land and at sea. In 2017, Patek Philippe presented a striking blue version of its Aquanaut 5168G on occasion of its 20th anniversary. It is now joined by a khaki-green version for stylish shore leave. The anniversary version was upgraded by a white gold case, as well its sibling-watch ref. 5168G-010. Other than the very similar Aquanaut ref. 5167, the 5168G (G stands for white gold) in blue and khaki is a ‘jumbo’ watch and measures 42.2 mm in case diameter at a comfortable height of 8.25 mm. The self-winding mechanical movement remains the familiar calibre 324 SC. Price: 35.710 Euros.
Aquanaut Ref. 5168G-010 in Khaki
