Breguet celebrates 250 years with two new Type XX chronographs: inspired by the gold models of 1955, now featuring contemporary aluminium and silver dials.
To mark the brand’s 250th anniversary and 70 years since the birth of the Type XX (the standard Type version was released in 1953), Breguet is launching two new chronograph models. Under reference 2075, the maison introduces two variants: one comes with a black anodised aluminium dial, the other is limited to just 250 pieces with a solid silver dial. Both editions pick up on signature details of the golden Type XX models from 1955, from the compact case diameter of 38.3 mm to the hand-wound movement. With these anniversary editions, Breguet bridges past and present in its renowned line of pilot’s watches. But before turning to the latest arrivals, it’s worth taking a step back: how did the Type XX become an icon?
Breguet is a brand whose history has shaped both the development of fine watchmaking and aviation. Abraham-Louis Breguet (1747–1823) is regarded as one of the most significant watchmakers of his era, introducing key technical innovations such as the tourbillon. In the following generation, Louis Breguet (1880–1955) expanded the family’s activities to include aircraft manufacturing. An engineer by training, he founded his own aviation company and, over more than five decades, developed numerous aircraft, including the Breguet 19, which served as a long-range bomber and reconnaissance aircraft. In 1930, the Breguet 19 achieved fame as the aircraft for the first non-stop flight from Paris to New York, piloted by Dieudonné Costes and Maurice Bellonte. The aircraft famously bore a large question mark, the ‘Point d’Interrogation’, as its identifier.
The link to aviation was pivotal in the development of the Breguet Type XX. This model series emerged in the early 1950s, when the French Air Force commissioned a wristwatch with chronograph function for its pilots. Breguet responded with the Type 20 for the military, and the Type XX for civilian customers and naval aviators. The models included technical features such as the flyback function. Unlike the standard practice of crafting pilot’s watches exclusively in steel, Breguet also produced versions with gold cases, now considered historical rarities. After production ended in the 1970s, Breguet revived the line as the Type XX Aéronavale in 1995. Today, the collection remains a tribute to the enduring connection between watchmaking and aviation history.
The case of the new Breguet Type XX 2075 models is made from 18-carat Breguet Gold, an exclusive alloy first introduced in 2025 with the Classique Souscription. This precious metal consists of 75% gold, complemented by silver, copper and palladium, resulting in a warm hue and enhanced durability. Measuring 38.3 mm in diameter and 13.2 mm in height, the new Type XX chronographs closely follow the historic 1955 reference, which also featured a gold case and similar proportions. The case dimensions are both timeless and wearable, lending the models versatility and authenticity within their historical context.
Choosing gold as the material for a pilot’s watch is a bold departure from tradition, as such timepieces have typically been crafted in steel to prioritize durability and functionality. With these anniversary models, Breguet deliberately sets a counterpoint, placing the precious metal centre stage. The case features a satin-brushed middle section for a discreet, matt effect. The bi-directional rotating bezel echoes a hallmark of earlier civilian Type XX models: black numerals for the aluminium version, blue for the silver edition. The crown is adorned with a relief ‘B’ – a distinctive hallmark of the brand.
On the caseback, an engraving depicts the historic Breguet 19 aircraft flying over the Atlantic, including the 1930 flight route and the coastlines of Europe and North America. The frosted finish gives the motif extra visual depth and further highlights the watch’s connection to aviation history. Water resistance is rated at 5 bar (50 metres), offering protection against splashes in everyday use – solid for a sport-inspired watch, if not exceptional. The case weighs approximately 53 grams, giving the watch a notable presence on the wrist.
Overall, the case of the Breguet Type XX 2075 achieves a harmonious balance between historical reference and modern production quality. Its choice of materials, meticulous craftsmanship, and inspiration drawn from the rare models of the 1950s collectively define the distinctive character of these watches.
The new Breguet Type XX 2075 models offer two distinct dials, each drawing on historical references while embracing modern material innovations. The 2075BH/99/398 model is the first in the brand’s history to feature a dial made from black anodised aluminium. This material is a nod to Louis Breguet’s aviation heritage and the use of Duralumin in aircraft construction. Thanks to anodising technology, the dial features a deep black, highly durable surface that resists corrosion and ensures optimal legibility. A discreet ‘Al’ marking between 7 and 8 o’clock subtly indicates the use of aluminium.
Arabic numerals, a minute track, and hands coated with beige-coloured, green-glowing luminescence provide clear readability by day and night. The chronograph layout includes a 15-minute counter at 3 o’clock and a small seconds at 9 o’clock, echoing early Type XX references.
Both versions omit a date display as a direct response to criticism of previous models and a conscious return to the design’s roots. The dials have a clean design and are well-arranged, with strong legibility and a contemporary take on classic pilot chronograph aesthetics. While the choice of beige-coloured, green-glowing luminescence is largely a matter of taste, it is unquestionably functional in use. The material selection and design are clearly inspired by historical references, yet introduce new details.
The limited 2075BH/G9/398 model features a solid 925 silver dial with a vertically brushed finish, offering a subtle sheen reminiscent of historic gold models with silver dials. An ‘Ag925’ marking between 7 and 8 o’clock indicates the use of silver. The applied Arabic numerals and indices are made from Breguet Gold, while the hands are crafted from blued steel. In addition, the silver model features a 30-minute counter at 3 o’clock and a tachymeter scale, as found on select vintage references.
The new Breguet Type XX 2075 models are powered by a hand-wound variant of the calibre 728, which was first introduced in 2023. The aluminium model is fitted with the calibre 7279, while the silver model uses the calibre 7278. Both movements run at a frequency of 5 Hz (36,600 vibrations per hour), ensuring a high level of accuracy. The power reserve is 60 hours, so the watch will keep running even if left unworn over a weekend.
Modern components are employed throughout: the balance spring and the horns of the lever escapement are made from silicon, enhancing the movement’s resistance to magnetic fields and contributing to their durability and precision. The integrated flyback function – one of the Type XX’s trademarks since the 1950s – allows the chronograph to be reset and restarted instantly with a single push of a button. Originally developed for pilots, this feature continues to offer practicality in everyday use.
The movement finishing features classic polishing and brushing. The caseback showcases a hand-engraved depiction of the Breguet 19 aircraft in flight over the Atlantic, the historic 1930 flight route, and the coastlines of Europe and North America – a direct homage to the aviation heritage that defines this model series. Additionally, the limited edition number for the silver model is also engraved on the caseback.
The decision to use a hand-wound movement is a deliberate reference to the original 1950s models. While an automatic movement would be more convenient for everyday wear, Breguet remains faithful to the line’s historical roots. The movement in the Type XX 2075 seamlessly combines modern technology and manufacturing excellence with a traditional craftsmanship and artisanal finishing.
The new Breguet Type XX 2075 models come with calf leather straps, each colour-coordinated to match the dial: the aluminium version features an anthracite strap with a gradient effect, while the silver model is paired with a blue leather strap. Both are equipped with a pin buckle crafted from 18-carat Breguet Gold. The straps are easily interchangeable, allowing for versatile wearing options. Leather straps provide a classic aesthetic but are typically less resistant to moisture and wear compared to metal or rubber alternatives. Currently, a metal bracelet is not offered for these models.
The model with the black aluminium dial (2075BH/99/398) is listed at 36,500 CHF. The limited silver edition (2075BH/G9/398) is priced at 38,000 CHF and is limited to 250 pieces worldwide. Both watches are delivered in a numbered anniversary leather box, inspired by the design of historical Breguet cases. Each purchase includes a five-year international warranty.
