Editorial

Watches & Wonders 2026: Panerai Expands the Luminor Collection With Three Hand-Wound Models With Clear Historical References

At Watches and Wonders 2026, Panerai is presenting three new Luminor models that clearly reflect the brand’s core theme: manual winding, long power reserve, and functional design. The PAM01731 and PAM01732 feature a new 44-millimetre case and three-day power reserve, while the PAM01733 takes on the most technically striking role with an eight-day power reserve. Together, the three new models demonstrate how consistently Panerai has incorporated familiar Luminor elements into its current design language.

Moritz Speckhahn 14 April 2026

Panerai presents three new Luminor references at Watches & Wonders 2026, closely aligned in concept, with a focus on new hand-wound calibres and power reserves – hallmarks of the brand’s technical DNA. The Luminor PAM01731 and the Luminor Destro PAM01732 introduce a reinterpreted 44-millimetre Luminor case and feature the new P.6000 hand-wound calibre with a three-day power reserve. The Luminor 8 Giorni Brunito PAM01733 complements this picture with the hand-wound P.5000 calibre and eight days of power reserve. Rather than representing a ‘new idea’, the launch of these models sees Panerai returning to the elements that have historically made it strong: robust cases, clear readability, high water resistance, and hand-wound movements with a long power reserve.

All three models have the case in common: Panerai has opted for a new 44-millimetre case shape, which is based on the historic Luminor Ref. 6152/1 from the 1950s, but has been deliberately adapted to modern times. The brand also drew inspiration from a more recent reference for the two models, PAM01731 and PAM01732: the PAM00372 from 2011. It can be thought of as a ‘contemporary translation’ of the classic Luminor designThe cushion-shaped silhouette, crown protection bar, and slightly domed sapphire crystal, which echoes the look of earlier plexiglass crystals, remain typical features.

PAM01731 and PAM01732: Two versions of the classic Luminor

This is most clearly demonstrated by the two P.6000 models. The P.6000 calibre is a hand-wound movement measuring 15½ lignes, 4.5 mm in height, with 19 jewels, 21,600 vibrations per hour, Incabloc shock protection, a barrel, and 110 individual components. The movement is decorated with blue lettering and horizontally brushed surfaces and is visible through the open caseback, which is often a decisive factor for many Paneristi when making a purchase. However, it is ultimately the displays that catch our eye and set the two models apart.

The Panerai Luminor Destro on the wrist — The Panerai Luminor Destro Ref. PAM01732

The Panerai Luminor on your wrist — The Panerai Luminor Ref. PAM01731

The Luminor PAM 01731

The Luminor PAM01731 utilises the calibre with all its functions: Hours, minutes, small seconds, and seconds stop. It features a matt, grainy tobacco-coloured sandwich dial with beige Super-LumiNova on the indices and numerals, as well as vintage-inspired double pencil hands. The small seconds are located at 9 o’clock. The case and bezel are made of polished steel, combined with a satin-finished crown protection bridge. Meanwhile, the open caseback is made of brushed and polished steel. Panerai has also opted for a classic look with the strap: dark brown calfskin with beige stitching and a trapezoidal brushed steel buckle. An additional dark brown rubber strap is also included. As is typical of Panerai, the package insert includes a screwdriver for changing the strap and buckle, and naturally comes along with the watch as well.

The front view of the Panerai Luminor PAM01731 — Die Panerai Luminor PAM01731

The case and dial of the Panerai Luminor PAM01731 — The Panerai Luminor with a "matte grainy tobacco" dial Ref. PAM01731

The Luminor PAM01732 Destro

Unlike the Luminor PAM01731, the Luminor Destro PAM01732 is its more distinctive sister model, primarily due to its construction. At Panerai, ‘Destro’ means that the crown protection bridge is located on the left side of the case, at 9 o’clock. Historically, this was intended as a solution for wearing the watch on the right wrist, with the original aim of maintaining the mobility of the other hand during operations. The dial of the Luminor Destro is matt, grainy, and blue (‘matte grainy blue’), also constructed as a sandwich, again with beige Super-LumiNova and double pencil hands. Unlike the PAM01731, however, there is no small seconds dial on the left, so despite the identical base calibre, the functions are officially only hours and minutes. Panerai opts for a refreshed strap palette, combining light brown calfskin with beige stitching and a blue rubber alternative, each with a trapezoidal clasp; as with the PAM01731, the set also includes a screwdriver..

The case and dial of the Panerai Luminor PAM01732 — The Panerai Luminor Destro with a "matte grainy blue" dial Ref. PAM01732

The P.6000 and the Panerai testing process

Both models with the P.6000 calibre are water-resistant to 30 bar or 300 metres. It is interesting to note how detailed Panerai’s description of its own testing process is. Before the actual water resistance test begins, the case and gaskets are first subjected to simulated ageing for ten years. This is followed by a test for dust and moisture penetration. Only in the next step is the fully assembled watch – without the strap – tested under real pressure conditions: first in a vacuum, then in a pressure test under water that exceeds the specified value by 25 per cent safety reserve. The final step is a condensation test, in which the watch and glass are heated and then exposed to cold water droplets to reveal any moisture inside the case. Every single watch undergoes this entire testing procedure, with the exception of simulated ageing.

The back of the Panerai Luminor Destro case — Case back of the Panerai Luminor Destro Ref. PAM01732 and view of the new hand-wound calibre P.6000 with 72-hour power reserve

PAM01733: The P.5000, Brunito finish, and 8-day power reserve

While the Luminor 8 Giorni Brunito PAM01733 follows the same basic concept, it stands out as one of the most distinctive new models. This is mainly due to the so-called Brunito finish, which lends the 44-millimetre case, the bezel, the crown protection bridge, and also the steel back with sapphire crystal a much more striking appearance. On the anthracite-coloured sandwich dial, beige Super-LumiNova, double pencil hands and the small seconds at 9 o’clock meet the two inscriptions ‘Luminor Panerai’ and ‘8 Giorni’. This not only makes the watch more visually expressive, but also clearly positions it within the trio above its eight-day concept.

The Panerai Luminor 8 Giorni on the wrist — The new Panerai Luminor 8 Giorni with brunito finish on the case surface Ref. PAM01733

With the P.5000, Panerai has equipped the Luminor 8 Giorni Brunito with a new hand-wound calibre that, with an eight-day power reserve, makes the strongest technical statement of the trio. The movement measures 15½ lignes and is 4.5 mm thick. It has 21 jewels, a Glucydur balance, 21,600 vibrations per hour, and Incabloc Parechoc shock protection. In total, the movement consists of 113 components. The display remains classic with hours, minutes, and small seconds, supplemented by a seconds stop function. Panerai combines the watch with a light brown calfskin strap and trapezoidal Brunito steel buckle. A black rubber strap and matching screwdriver are also included. It is water resistant to 30 bar (300 metres), as tested using the same procedure as for the other new Luminor models.