Yesterday morning at 9 AM (CET), with a quick refresh of my safari page, Patek Philippe dropped seven new watches to its sports collections. All of them carry precious stones and are aimed towards the female clientele of the brand. This is truly the season for minute repeaters; as well as the new Ref. 1938 unveiled last week, Patek Philippe has now introduced Philippe Stern’s favourite complication to the Aquanaut line for the first time ever.
5260/355R: Aquanaut Luce ‘Rainbow’ Minute Repeater Haute Joaillerie
The 18-carat rose gold case comes in at 38.8 mm and rather controversially is only dust and humidity proof (not water). But despite being an Aquanaut, this is not a watch for the sea. It is perhaps more suited to somewhere where the light flickers a little more. The case is adorned with a plethora of precious stones: an inner bezel made from 40 baguette-cut sapphires in a rainbow gradient, surrounded by an outer bezel of a further 40 baguette-cut diamonds which even manage to drip their way down the lugs.
But the baguette-cut stones don’t stop there. The dial is paved with a further 54 baguette-cut diamonds, 12 extra baguette-cut rainbow sapphire hour markers, and, just to top it off, the gaps are filled in with 160 brilliant-cut diamonds. Visible through the sapphire caseback is the calibre R 27, a 3 Hz minute repeating movement equipped with two classic gongs and 45 hours of power reserve. Expect the finishing to be of the highest standard, as is almost always the case with Patek repeaters.
The watch comes with a beige composite strap, but can also be fitted with one of the alternative red or white composite straps. This model is expected to be produced in very small numbers – price upon request.
5260/1455R: Aquanaut Luce ‘Rainbow’ Minute Repeater Haute Joaillerie
The Ref. 5260/1455R is even more dazzling, if that were even possible. The 18-carat rose gold case is identical in its measurements, and likewise carries the same dust and humidity rating. This time, however, the case flanks, lugs and even the repeater switch are encrusted with coloured sapphires, following nothing less than the rainbow theme. The Ref. 5260/1455R comes with a show-stopping matching 18-carat rose gold bracelet set with a further 779 baguette-cut rainbow sapphires.
The dial once again is paved with baguette-cut diamonds and adorned with the same 12 baguette-cut rainbow sapphire hour markers, but this time, the gaps are filled in with even more baguette-cut diamonds rather than the brilliant-cut ones seen in the Ref. 5260/355R. What’s even more special about this dial is that even the hands are loaded with baguette cut rubies and sapphires, an uncommon occurrence to say the least. The watch is powered by the same calibre R 27. Production is also expected to be extremely low, and price on request only.
7118/1451G, 7118/1452G and 7118/1453G: Nautilus Haute Joaillerie
As well as the Aquanaut Luce line, the ladies Nautilus line also gets a splash of colour. The new Ref. 7118G comes with a ‘snow set’ facade of different coloured gem stones, from the case all the way down to the clasp.
The dimensions are unchanged from the regular Ref. 7118 that already existed in the Patek catalogue. A 35.2 mm 18-carat white gold case, but this time coated with a total of 241 brilliant-cut diamonds and with a bezel consisting of either 367 blue sapphires for the /1451G, 367 rubies for the /1452G or 367 emeralds for the /1453G. This theme continues all the way down the bracelet with the main part consisting of nearly 1,000 brilliant cut diamonds and the centre links coated with 497 of the respective coloured gem stones.
The dial once again keeps the wave pattern from the existing Ref. 7118, but in-between these waves you will find elegant streams of brilliant-cut diamonds, all surrounded by 12 baguette-cut hour markers, either blue sapphire, ruby or emerald.
The watch is powered by calibre 26-330 S, a self-winding movement with a central sweeping seconds hand, and 45 hours of power reserve. Price is available upon request, and production is expected to be very limited.
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