Vacheron Constantin Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin: An Anniversary Model in Azure Blue

In this article, we take a closer look at the new, 200-piece limited edition of the Vacheron Constantin Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin, now being presented to mark the 30th anniversary of the Overseas collection. The model ranks among the thinnest perpetual calendar wristwatches currently available. Technically, it remains unchanged from the third – and still current – generation of the Overseas collection, first introduced in 2016. What sets this new edition apart is its azure-blue dial combined with a white-gold case – a pairing that has not previously been produced.

The Movement of the Vacheron Constantin Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin

In the flagship model of the Overseas collection, Vacheron Constantin combines the 2.45 mm-thick self-winding calibre 1120, whose architecture originally traces back to the Jaeger-LeCoultre calibre 920, with an ultra-thin perpetual calendar to create the Manufacture Calibre 1120 QP/1. Despite combining the perpetual calendar with a moon-phase display, the movement, comprising 276 components, measures just 4.05 mm in height, making the watch’s slender case profile – more on that shortly – possible in the first place. Its 40-hour power reserve and frequency of 2.75 Hz appear comparatively modest by today’s standards – presumably in part because the ultra-thin construction limits the dimensions of the mainspring barrel.

As a perpetual calendar, the watch’s calendar mechanism displays not only the date, day of the week, month and leap year. The mechanism automatically accounts for the differing lengths of months with 28, 30 and 31 days and adds 29 February every four years. Manual correction is required only in full century years, when the leap year is omitted under the rules of the Gregorian calendar. Accordingly, the date must be advanced by one day on 1 March in the years 2100, 2200 and 2300.

Turn the new Vacheron Constantin Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin over and look through the sapphire-crystal caseback, and it becomes clear that the movement features a sophisticated architecture and careful finishing, as confirmed by one particular detail: the Hallmark of Geneva, regarded as one of the most prestigious certifications in Swiss watchmaking.

Introduced in the Canton of Geneva in 1886 as a legally protected seal of quality, the Hallmark of Geneva emerged in response to growing competition and concerns over quality, as well as a means of preventing misuse of the designation ‘Made in Geneva’ by unauthorised manufacturers. The Hallmark of Geneva imposes strict quality requirements that Geneva movements must meet in order to bear the seal. These include, in particular, that the movement must have been manufactured, assembled and regulated in the Canton of Geneva by a company based there, and that a rate accuracy of less than one minute’s deviation per day must be maintained over seven days.

However, the seal stipulates not only specific functional requirements, but also aesthetic ones, particularly with regard to the finishing of the movement. Accordingly, all visible surfaces of the bridges and plates must feature specific forms of decoration. In keeping with these criteria, Manufacture Calibre 1120 QP/1 is also extensively decorated: the bridges are adorned with Geneva stripes, while their edges are bevelled and subsequently polished (anglage).

In addition, the mainplate is decorated with perlage, while visible calendar components such as gears and screw heads are finished with either straight or circular graining. This is complemented by the 22-carat gold oscillating weight, engraved with a compass rose. The Hallmark of Geneva is awarded and monitored by Timelab, a foundation established specifically for this purpose in 2012, which oversees compliance with the relevant standards in Geneva.

The Case of the Vacheron Constantin Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin

As its name suggests, the Vacheron Constantin Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin measures just 8.1 mm in height, made possible by the movement’s equally slender height of only 4.05 mm. This makes it thinner than its most obvious competitors: the Patek Philippe Nautilus Perpetual Calendar at 8.42 mm and the recently updated Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding Perpetual Calendar at 9.4 mm. At the same time, it offers water resistance to approximately 50 metres (5 bar).

With a case diameter of 41.5 mm, the Vacheron Constantin Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin appears comparatively large on paper. Thanks to its integrated bracelet, however, it wears slimmer than the dimensions might suggest. In terms of design, it remains firmly within familiar Overseas territory, with its barrel-shaped case and characteristic notched bezel inspired by the Maltese cross and finished with a mirror polish.

The satin-finished case of the new Vacheron Constantin Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin is paired with an equally satin-finished integrated bracelet in 18-carat white gold. Thanks to the quick-change system, the white-gold bracelet can easily be exchanged for either of the two additional rubber straps supplied with the watch – one in white rubber and the other in denim-blue rubber. This gives the model significantly greater versatility in terms of appearance.

The Dial of the Vacheron Constantin Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin

One of the particular strengths of this watch – and this brings us to the model’s key new feature – lies in the comparatively clear and intuitive presentation of its complex calendar information on the dial. The new Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin introduces a new dial colour: a lighter, less saturated shade of azure blue. The date is positioned at 3 o’clock, the moon-phase display at 6 o’clock, the day of the week at 9 o’clock and the 48-month display, including the leap-year indication, at 12 o’clock.

Both the dial and the moon-phase display of the new Vacheron Constantin Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin are executed tone-on-tone in an azure-blue shade that harmonises with the case. They are complemented by hour, minute and subdial hands, as well as applied indices, crafted from 18-carat white gold. Light-blue five-minute markers on the flange and within the leap-year display add a deliberate colour accent without disrupting the watch’s overall colour scheme. Finally, the hour and minute hands, along with the hour markers, are coated with blue Super-LumiNova to ensure legibility even in low-light conditions.

Price and Availability of the Vacheron Constantin Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin

The new Vacheron Constantin Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin with an azure-blue dial is limited to 200 pieces and is priced at €140,000.

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