Vacheron Constantin is treating its collectors to a new platinum limited edition, of which only 50 pieces are available: the Traditionnelle tourbillon chronograph – Collection Excellence Platine. The emblematic masterpiece goes all out in its use of the precious material. It features a platinum case, crown, dial, buckle and – yes you read that right – even platinum strap stitching. Powering the watch is a prestigious in-house movement that integrates a tourbillon and monopusher chronograph.
A case worthy of the Collection Excellence Platine
Vacheron Constantin house the Traditionnelle tourbillon chronograph – Collection Excellence Platine in a 42.5 mm stepped 950 platinum case. Thanks to the relatively slim movement within, the case maintains an elegant height of just 11.7 mm. The case’s open caseback allows the owner of this watch to admire its phenomenal calibre, which we’ll get to later. Vacheron Constantin also elegantly engrave each caseback in cursive writing with the watch’s individual limitation number. The polished case is water resistant to approximately 30 metres.
The dial of the Traditionnelle tourbillon chronograph
Despite its noble choice of material and complications, the Traditionnelle tourbillon chronograph – Collection Excellence Platine has a minimalist design that embraces the somewhat industrial vibe we’ve seen on several limited editions in recent times, such as AP’s Self-winding Flying Tourbillon in 2021 or even Vacheron’s own Traditionnelle Complete Calendar Openface from the same year.
The watch’s layout prioritises legibility, featuring a prominent tourbillon aperture at 12 o’clock, a 45-minute chronograph counter at 3 o’clock, and a power-reserve indicator at 6 o’clock. Following the style of the Traditionnelle collection, the dial showcases Dauphine-type hands and baton hour markers for easy time reading. Additionally, the dial features a railway-style minute track with fifth-of-a-second graduations and a Base 1000 tachymeter scale. The chronograph functions are highly legible thanks to a blued steel seconds hand and an 18-carat gold minutes hand, coordinated with the power-reserve pointer. The hours and minutes hands are likewise in 18-carat white gold, while the dial itself is 950 platinum. Vacheron Constantin sand-blast this very special dial to achieve its refined yet contemporary aesthetic.
A feat of engineering: Vacheron Constantin Calibre 3200
Developed to mark the brand’s 260th anniversary in 2015, the in-house calibre 3200 is a monopusher chronograph with a tourbillon regulator. Reliability, precision and user friendliness lie at the heart of its design. At just 6.7 mm thick, the 292-part manual-winding movement is remarkably slim for such a complex timepiece. The movement takes inspiration from the manufacture’s defining chronograph movements from the 1930s and 1940s. With the tourbillon regulator and monopusher chronograph function incorporated into the movement, as opposed to a modular construction, functionality remains the most important aspect of the calibre 3200.
Other exciting developments in this calibre include a special peripheral
drive system for the tourbillon carriage, as well as an ‘all-or-nothing’ activation system in the chronograph, which prevents the seconds hand from starting when too little pressure is applied to the pusher.
A mechanical spectacle
The relatively thin construction of the movement enables the mainplate to be open-worked, thus providing a spectacular view of the tourbillon. Horology aficionados will particularly appreciate the view via the caseback, which reveals the column-wheel bearing a Maltese cross, the lateral friction clutch, the two hammers for zero-resetting the chronograph hands, as well as the peripheral tourbillon drive.
Aesthetic beauty
Beauty also plays a vital role in this Ref. 5100T/000P-H041 watch, leading to it bearing the coveted Geneva Seal. As one can admire via the caseback, the calibre 3200’s plate displays circular-graining alongside polishing and chamfering on every component. Polished gear teeth also add not only aesthetic beauty, but also functionality, as this treatment prevents micro-particles from increasing the friction coefficient. Meanwhile, the hand-bevelled bridges showcase a Côtes de Genève motif. Last but not least, Vacheron’s watchmakers mirror-polish the tourbillon before rounding off its bar by hand – a process that requires a full eleven hours of work. Again, the aesthetics are stunning, yet they also serve a second purpose: they serve to reinforce the corrosion-resistance of the components.
Price and strap
Lastly, the Traditionnelle tourbillon chronograph – Collection Excellence Platine comes on a handsome dark blue alligator leather strap. Quite amazingly, the hand-stitched strap goes the extra mile by using platinum 950 and silk stitching. A mere 50 numbered pieces are available.
