Just in time for summer, Wempe, in collaboration with Ulysse Nardin, presents a maritime sports watch in vibrant orange and ultra-light materials as part of their Signature Collection. Since 2022, Wempe has been creating limited-edition models in partnership with renowned watch brands. The family business’ many years of expertise and the wishes of its customers are directly incorporated into the design process. This marks the fifth Wempe Signature collaboration since 2022, and the second in 2024, which will be ceremoniously launched tonight in Berlin together with Ulysse Nardin with the Diver NET Signature Collection, limited to 75 pieces.
The first watch in collaboration with Ulysse Nardin is not the so prominent Freak that one might expect, but the brand’s Diver line. This is due to the fact that the two companies have something in common. Since its foundation in 1846, Ulysse Nardin has been manufacturing marine chronometers that are highly respected worldwide and have been used in more than 50 countries to equip their navies.
Since 1905, Chronometerwerke Hamburg, which was then taken over by Herbert Wempe in 1938, equipped ships with precision watches that were extremely resistant to vibrations and temperature differences, as they were gimballed and had a chronometer escapement. After Wempe had to gradually rebuild production in the 1950s following the Second World War, Ulysee Nardin supplied Wempe with movement parts such as springs, which is why the two brands have enjoyed a close and friendly partnership ever since. After the quartz crisis in the 1980s, Wempe even became the first concessionaire in Germany to include Ulysee Nardin watches in its range.
In addition to the reliable marine chronometers of yesteryear, Ulysse Nardin has made a name for itself in recent decades with innovative movement designs. As early as 2001, the independent watchmaker developed and installed a silicon escapement for the first time in the watch industry. The Diver line not only fits in with the brand’s maritime DNA, but is also a project close to the heart of CEO Patrick Pruniaux, who is himself a passionate diver, sailor and kite surfer.
The 44 mm case of this new Wempe Signature model is made of 95 per cent recycled stainless steel and has been combined with various materials co-developed by Ulysse Nardin. The side parts and the case back are made of Nylo (60 per cent) and Carbonium (40 per cent). Nylo is a polyamide made from upcycled fishing nets. Carbonium is a particularly strong and lightweight carbon fibre that is also used in the production of aircraft wings and fuselages. Carbonium produces 40 per cent less environmental pollution than other carbon composites. Carbonium also reduces weight by around 50 per cent – ideal for a sporty summer watch. As a true diver’s watch, the Diver NET Signature Collection is water-resistant to 300 metres.
In addition to the characteristic marbled carbon look on the case, the bright orange rubber strap is certainly the visual highlight of the watch. Orange-coloured accents can also be found on the dial, on which the small seconds and power reserve display are in orange and form a striking but harmonious contrast to the matt black dial. The 1846 lettering, which refers to the year in which Ulysse Nardin was founded, is also orange.
Inside the new Wempe Signature Diver NET Signature Collection ticks the manufacture calibre UN-118 with date and power reserve display, an anti-magnetic silicon balance spring and an escapement wheel and anchor made from patented DiamonSil. The power reserve is 60 hours. As the technology requires less maintenance, the guarantee has been extended to five years.
Even though Ulysse Nardin already has a similar model in its core collection, this special edition is particularly exciting for collectors, as it is limited to 75 pieces and both the case back and a ceramic inlay on the bracelet refer to the Wempe Signature Edition. The new Diver NET Signature Collection is worn on the aforementioned rubber strap in orange or optionally black, both with a double folding clasp made of ceramic and titanium.
The Wempe x Ulysse Nardin Diver NET Signature Collection will be available worldwide from 27 June for 15,750 euros in all Wempe branches with an Ulysse Nardin concession and at wempe.com.
