Breguet has unveiled a new watch in its Type XX collection. The Type XX Chronograph 2067 is a civilian version with a case made of rose gold and a bezel featuring a ceramic insert. These materials are not only robust but also exude luxury, marking a departure from the military origins of the Type XX watches. With this timepiece, Breguet is expanding its fourth generation of Type XX watches, which were first introduced in June 2023. This new model draws inspiration from historical examples while incorporating modern design elements and features.
The case of the Type XX Chronograph 2067 is made of rose gold and has a diameter of 42 mm. It features a fluted, bidirectional graduated bezel in gold with a blue ceramic ring. This combination of materials is not only elegant but also adds to the functionality of the watch. The straight-line crown allows for three different positions: winding, date setting, and time setting. Pushers at 2 and 4 o’clock control the chronograph functions, with the latter also serving the ‘flyback’ function that resets the chronograph hand to zero and restarts it immediately. The overall thickness of the watch is 14.1 mm, giving it a robust appearance. Furthermore, the water resistance of up to 100 meters ensures that the watch can withstand splashes and brief submersions.
The dial of the Type XX Chronograph 2067 impresses with a deep sunburst blue reminiscent of the sky at dusk. This rich colour is complemented by the gold hour markers and hands, which are filled with luminescent material for readability in low-light conditions. The chronograph subdials feature a snailed motif, adding depth and texture to the dial. The date window is discreetly positioned between 4 and 5 o’clock, ensuring that the balance of the dial remains intact despite the additional complications. Overall, the dial successfully combines aesthetic appeal with functionality, remaining true to the aviation-inspired roots of the Type XX collection.
The Type XX Chronograph 2067 is powered by the new manufacture calibre 728, which was presented for the first time in 2023 after four years of development. This self-winding movement features a flyback chronograph complication, allowing for rapid resetting and restarting of the chronograph. Innovations in the pushers mean that the pressure required for operation is now even and balanced, enhancing the user experience. The vertical clutch mechanism ensures that the chronograph seconds hand does not stutter when starting. The balance wheel is secured by a cross-through bridge, increasing the robustness of the movement. Operating at a frequency of 5 Hz, the movement has a power reserve of 60 hours. The sapphire crystal caseback offers a view of the movement’s aesthetics and decorations, including a blackened gold oscillating weight shaped like an aircraft wing. This attention to detail extends to the column wheel, which receives a special black treatment that improves both its appearance and function.
The Type XX Chronograph 2067 comes with two interchangeable straps: one in brown alligator leather and the other in NATO fabric. The leather strap has a classic look and is accompanied by an 18K gold pin buckle. The NATO strap, reinforced with white piping, adds a sporty touch and comfort. An innovative system allows for tool-free changing of the straps; pressing the pushers beneath the lugs releases the two halves of the leather strap, while the NATO strap fits securely under the case. This feature enhances the versatility of the watch, allowing it to adapt to different occasions.
The Breguet Type XX Chronograph 2067 is set to be a limited edition, though specific details on production numbers have yet to be announced. The watch will come in a special box with a havana colour reminiscent of aircraft wing profiles. The new Type XX Chronograph 2067 in rose gold costs 40,700 EUR.
