One could well argue that Gérald Genta is perhaps the greatest driver of the term ‘value’ within modern-day luxury watchmaking. Think about it: during his lifetime, the Swiss designer and watchmaker was responsible for the most important, enduringly popular and recognisable watch models of our age – namely Audemars Piguet’s Royal Oak, Patek Philippe’s Nautilus, as well as IWC’s Ingenieur. His own watches, which began production under his own eponymous brand from 1969 onwards, also went on to become pretty valuable. Developing a fixation on chiming watches and thus cementing his reputation as far more than the industry’s top designer, his Grande Sonnerie Tourbillon integrated four gongs, ringing out the melody of the Big Ben. Meanwhile, his Grande Sonnerie Retro from 1994, comprising over 800 components, was crowned the world’s most complicated wristwatch, selling for around two million dollars.
During the 1980s, and with his creativity arguably peaking in the 1990s, Genta counted among the very few watchmakers creating minute repeaters, which would go on to enrapture collectors across the globe. His ingenuity knew no bounds. Open-worked minute repeating perpetual calendars showcased his watches’ inner workings and the finest decoration. Another of Genta’s minute repeater models encased the entire automatic minute repeater movement into a dainty 34 mm octagonal case, covering the front of the dial with hefty diamonds and sapphires, while only the transparent caseback revealed the completely hand engraved movement and rotor. Yet another piece embraced an oval case shape with a 31 mm diameter, integrating a highly engraved gilt-finished jewelled lever movement with two gongs. Suffice to say, minute repeaters were an area in which Genta excelled.
Even after his passing in 2011 at the age of 80, Genta’s name and legacy alike continued to hold great value. Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton, which converted into the highly specialist integrated manufacture headed by master watchmakers Michel Navas and Enrico Barbasini that we know and love today back in 2014, were well aware of this fact, having themselves worked as former watchmakers for Genta – and thus, the gérald genta brand was revived under LVMH in 2023. The brand’s resurrection was heralded by a Mickey Mouse minute repeater, which paid tribute to Genta’s popular watches commissioned during the 1980s, when Genta obtained special licensing with The Walt Disney Company and distributed a limited edition of Disney character watches to his customers.
Earlier this month, the gérald genta brand introduced a new piece, confidently (or unassumingly) named the Minute Repeater. From the handsome aesthetics and sound of the minute repeater to the mechanism making it possible, we naturally wanted to take a closer look at this special collector piece, of which a mere ten pieces will be produced per year.
When a cello maker crafts a new instrument, he or she must consider not only the aesthetics of the cello, of course, but also other aspects such as varying thickness, graduation, arching, joining and assembly. Arches, for example, allow the sound of the cello strings to vibrate more freely. Varying thickness permits the thinner areas to vibrate more and enhance certain frequencies; thicker areas provide strength and balance. Choice of material is also important: dense ebony is employed for the fingerboard, maple for the back, ribs and neck. The musical world of minute repeaters works much the same, with clarity and tuning held in particularly high regard.
At 40 mm in diameter and just 9.6 mm thick, the yellow-gold case of the new gérald genta Minute Repeater is an essay in restraint and acoustics. Gold, by the way, tends to create a warmer, rounder sound than other potential materials such as titanium or steel. Softly cushioned in shape, the case is a natural evolution of Genta’s celebrated octagonal form, rounded into a form that better amplifies sound while still ensuring elegance on the wrist. Brushed and polished surfaces alternate to create a play of light, while double gadroons – familiar to those well-versed with historical Genta creations – add depth and refinement. The case has been pared back to its absolute minimum, with ultra-thin case walls reduced to 0.6 mm at their thinnest and a crystal trimmed to 0.8 mm; all designed in the pursuit of unimpeded resonance. A discreetly polished trigger, single wide lug, and onyx cabochon crown complete the case design that thus mirrors a musical instrument as much as it does a watch.
In keeping with Genta’s well-known affection for hardstone dials, the Minute Repeater is fitted with a deep black onyx disc whose lustre contrasts with the warmth of 3N yellow gold. Gold indices and polished, arrow-tipped hands sit above a minute track that cleverly blends round and cushion forms. Interestingly, Matthew Hegi, Artistic Director at La Fabrique du Temps, describes this minute track as being ‘the very core of the watch’s design.’ Close observers will note that the inner segment is in fact circle-shaped, while the outer layer of the track echoes the softened geometry of the case. This subtle distortion gives the watch an artistic, architectural presence without compromising clarity.
Powering the watch is the calibre GG-002, developed entirely in-house at La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton. No small feat. This is a manual-winding movement, requiring more than four weeks of assembly, and comprising of 316 components and 32 jewels. The finishing visible via the caseback is likewise held to the highest standard of haute horlogerie: Côtes de Genève, snailing, and painstakingly hand-bevelled angles. A bar click provides a distinct tactile sensation during winding, while the octagonal inertia wheel pays direct tribute to Genta’s preferred form. With an 80-hour power reserve and a thickness of just 5.46 mm, the GG-002 demonstrates both endurance and finesse.
The complication itself is a study in acoustic mastery. Black-polished hammers and hand-cut gongs, mounted in traditional fashion with a single revolution, yield a chime of exceptional clarity and surprising volume for such a thin wristwatch. This can also be credited to the fact that each gong is manually tuned by the human ear and hand (again, much like a musical instrument), with the watchmakers adjusting each component to ensure optimal vibration and amplitude. The effect is crystalline, resonant, and faithful to Genta’s long-standing pursuit of euphonic chiming watches. In this sense, the gérald genta Minute Repeater is a study in ingenuity, balance, and resonance.
Last but not least, a distinctively Genta-esque single lug on each side of the watch serves to attach the black sheepskin strap, matching smartly to the dial. The price of the gérald genta Minute Repeater is not explicitly communicated, however we can expect it to be in excess of CHF 300,000 (excluding taxes). This brings us back to the topic of ‘value’ that defines Gérald Genta’s legacy: and there’s no doubt that ten fortuitous collectors will recognise that fact.
