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Return to the Golden Age: Daniel Roth Tourbillon Souscription

Return to the Golden Age: Daniel Roth Tourbillon Souscription


An interesting story lies behind the Tourbillon Souscription. Despite quietly retiring to the mountains in recent years, watchmaker Daniel Roth was once one of the best-known men of his craft. With names such as Jaeger-LeCoultre and Audemars Piguet under his belt, Roth was an educator as well as an innovator. A major milestone for Roth included creating Breguet’s first ever tourbillon wristwatch (the very thing that defines the brand today). Yet with the launch of his first watch in 1988 branded under his own name, the double-face Reference 2187/C187 with tourbillon, he made his mark forever. Roth became a pioneer of independent watchmaking, and within only a couple of years, Daniel Roth watches had become a firm favourite with collectors.

Now, the brand is undergoing a renaissance as the prestigious La Fabriques du Temps Louis Vuitton, which is currently enjoying its own horological heyday, takes the brand under its wing. Paying homage to the original model from 1988, the Tourbillon Souscription features Daniel Roth’s unmistakable ‘double ellipse’ case design and one-minute tourbillon.

The case

The Tourbillon Souscription is housed in a slim yellow-gold case with a height of only 9.2 mm. Retaining the proportions of the 1988 original, the new version is subtly refined with reshaped hand-soldered lugs, creating an elegant downward arch. Furthermore, the graceful gold case offers water-resistance to 30 m.

The dial

Meanwhile, the solid gold dial showcases stunning Clous de Paris guilloche decoration – just like the original. While keeping the same markings as the first ever model by Daniel Roth, craftsmen now streamline the typography to modernise its aesthetic. This dial, in a nod to the background of Daniel Roth’s independent watchmaking career, was produced in the mountain-top workshop of Kari Voutilainen. This workshop in Môtiers is known to be one of the leading independent watchmakers of today.

The movement

As for the all-important question of movement: La Fabrique du Temps insert the in-house calibre DR001, conceived exclusively for the Daniel Roth brand. This is the result of a decision by master watchmakers Michel Navas and Enrico Barbasini, who collectively brought Louis Vuitton its watchmaking fame. Both men will personally oversee the creation of every singe Daniel Roth timepiece.

The calibre DR001 was conceived especially for this watch, thus taking the unusual form of a double ellipse. Despite being concealed behind a solid caseback, the movement is nevertheless entirely finished by hand, right down to
the mirror-finished screw heads. Amongst its decorative flourishes are the bridge for the wheel driving the tourbillon in black-polished steel and the mirror-finished winding click. The manual-winding DR001 bequeaths the Tourbillon Souscription a generous 80-hour power reserve, while beating at a frequency of 3 Hz.

As well as providing hour and minutes, the calibre also integrates a tourbillon that simultaneously serves as small seconds, thanks to three heat-blued indicators. These are read in tandem with a tri-sectioned seconds scale on the dial. The tourbillon also boasts discreet enhancements. Thus, both sides of its frame features Côtes de Genève decoration, while the plate below the tourbillon is finely frosted.

Strap, price and availability

Last but not least, the Daniel Roth Tourbillon Souscription from La Fabrique du Temps comes with a brown calfskin leather with pin buckle. It is a limited edition of a mere 20 pieces, with a price of 140,000 Swiss francs. Delivery will commence in early 2024.


BRAND Daniel Roth
MODEL Tourbillon Souscription
CASE MATERIAL 18-carat yellow gold
DIMENSIONS Dimensions: 38,6 x 35,5mm
Height: 9,2 mm
WATER RESISTANCE 30 m (~3 bar)
DIAL 18-carat yellow gold 3N
STRAP/BRACELET Brown calfskin leather with gold buckle
MOVEMENT TYPE Manual winding
FREQUENCY 3 Hz (21,600 vph)
FUNCTIONS Hours, minutes, small seconds (via tourbillon)
PRICE CHF 140,000 (excl. tax)