The beauty of traditional watch manufactures is, that on the one hand production methods that once made them strong are still being emphasized today, and on the other hand this unbroken innovation spirit from past times still generates modern and exciting new techniques. The Breguet Classique Tourbillon Extra-Plat Automatique 5367 that has been introduced at the beginning of this year is a perfect example.
Tradition meets modern – the Breguet Classique Tourbillon Extra Plat
In 2013 Breguet presented the previous model with Ref. 5377 which visible appearance was shaped by a hand-guilloche dial. The silvered gold dial is adorned with ‘clou de Paris’ hobnail, barleycorn, straight chevrons and cross hatching. Inside floats a highly modern Tourbillon with its cage and balance made of titanium, the balance spring made of silicon and the escapement from a mixture of silicon and antimagnetic steel. The rotor is placed peripheral, which enhances the view on the movement and strengthens the power. The result is a strong power reserve of 80 hours.
The floating tourbillion cage and balance are made of titanium
The new watch with Ref. 5367 is equipped with the same powerful movement calibre 581. However the dial is decorated with another very traditional craftsmanship that is rooted in the watchmaking history since over 300 years – the Grand-Feu-Enamel. The name originally comes from the old Franconian ‘Smalt’ or ‘Schmelz’ meaning émail in French and consisting of a mixture of silicate (salts) and oxides which turn into that shimmery, glassy form when melted. It is in detail much more complicated – just to give you an idea.
Breguet Classique Tourbillon Extra Plat
When manufacturing the enamel dials, the blanks are being painted with a glaze and then dusted before they cure in the kiln at about 800 degrees. Afterwards numbers and indices are being stamped onto the surface and cured once again in the kiln. As the blanks happen to deform under the enormous heat, they are being flattened in the end. Finally the gaps are being cut out precisely – in this case a small hole, which makes space for the Tourbillon complication at 5 o’clock.
Traditional craftsmanship – the dial is made from Grand-Feu-Enamel
In opposite to its previous model the Classique Tourbillon Extra-Plat 5367 is kept more minimalistic from the outside, the movement however is even more laborious. Bridges, barrel and rotor are hand graved. The rotor is made of platinum and rotates peripherally around the 3mm flat movement. The Tourbillon also plays an important role in this watch – after all, Abraham-Louis Breguet has invented the first Tourbillon-Regulator in 1801.
Full attention for the movement – the rotor is placed peripheral
The Classique Tourbillon Extra-Plat 5367 is available with a case in rosegold or platinum and a noble mahogany brown or blue alligator strap.
„I fly to escape the people and to be able to think“, once said the Brazilian inventor and aviation pioneer Alberto Santos-Dumont. This attitude nearly ended up deadly for him at the beginning of the 20th century, when he stroked the roof of a building with his airship and only managed to rescue himself in the…
Although the launch of the first automatic, integrated high-frequency chronograph calibre – the legendary El Primero – in 1969 was a unique milestone for Zenith, another significant debut from that year should not be overlooked. The Defy also made its first appearance in the watch world in 1969 and today ranks among the brand’s core…
Clocks, canons and propellers – we usually know bronze from these engineering heavyweights. And finally, the watch industry celebrates a comeback of this industrial material. What makes Bronze so special is not only it’s toughness, but also that it develops it’s very individual patina over the time by being used. That makes every Bronze watch…
Audemars Piguet is not only celebrating its 150th anniversary this year, but also bidding farewell to the calibre 5135 after almost a decade in production. However, this special automatic movement with perpetual calendar is not simply disappearing without a trace. Rather, it is being produced one the last time, as it shows off its best…
Swisswatches recently headed over to Hamburg in order to see and celebrate the official launch of Tudor’s second ever mono-brand boutique. Our editor Catherine Bishop reports back on what the space has to offer Tudor clients from far and wide. When one hears Tudor, one thinks of David Beckham, the All Blacks, and of course…
The Louvre, Paris. Once the residence of French kings, it is now the most visited museum in the world. It is home to a collection consisting of several hundred thousand works, based on the passion for art by a few. Among them are King Francis I (1515 - 1547), a patron of Leonardo da Vinci,…
Talking about Breguet, if you only have extravagant, skeletonized and hand-guilloched pieces of art with sophisticated complications in mind, you should take yourself the time to dive deeper into the history of the Maison. This is deliberately meant to be understood in a double sense, because it’s the ‘Marine’ collection that is pretty much distinctive…
The young Norqain brand from Nidau was founded in 2018 at a time when the market did not really need another watch brand – and has therefore taken an unconventional path from the outset: Norqain relies on close cooperation with prominent athletes who not only serve as brand ambassadors but are also deeply involved in…
On 7 October 2024, Richard Mille unveiled its fourth watch developed as part of its ten-year partnership with McLaren. This watch aims to transfer the DNA of McLaren's super sports cars into watchmaking and be in every way as extraordinary as the cars that bear the title ‘1’. This year's creation is not only inspired…
In 1968, the Apollo 8 mission transmitted images to Earth that were so impressive that they triggered a metaphysical shiver across the globe. 'Earthrise', the image shot on 24 December 1968 during the fourth of ten planned orbits of the moon, not only made it clear that we humans had set foot on another celestial…
It is one of the biggest privileges of our time: To have space to ourselves. To enjoy the wideness. To become one with nature, rather than bumping into masses of people in an overcrowded city. This is how life was long before the current world crisis, and will probably become an even bigger and more…
At Watches and Wonders 2025, Tudor is turning a new page – while remaining true to its proven strengths. Among this year’s novelties are the Pelagos Ultra, offering an impressive water resistance of 1,000 metres; the Black Bay 68 – an entirely new model with a 43-millimetre case; and an updated version of the Black…
These days, Vacheron Constantin seems to reach new heights every five minutes. Ever more in the eyes of the public and not just connoisseurs, the horology house recently burst through the billion-franc mark, as it achieved a phenomenal 1.097 billion Swiss francs in sales. According to Morgan Stanley’s annual watch report, this amounts to an average watch…