For Watches & Wonders 2021, the Geneva-based manufacturer Vacheron Constantin is presenting the Traditionnelle Split-Seconds Chronograph Ultra-Thin Collection Excellence Platine. The model expands the Collection Excellence Platine, in which Vacheron Constantin wraps classic watches in platinum. Accordingly, the new model consists almost entirely of the rare precious metal. It also offers a split-seconds function, made possible by the particularly flat calibre 3500 with automatic winding. The watch is released as a limited and numbered edition of only 15 pieces.
The case of the Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Split-Seconds Chronograph Ultra-Thin is made entirely of 950 platinum. While a diameter of 42.5 mm ensures a stately appearance on the wrist, the watch remains flat and slender with a height of 10.72 mm. A pusher is integrated into the crown to control the chronograph. For the split-seconds function, Vacheron Constantin has placed a square pusher at 2 o’clock. The limitation number is engraved on the case back. In addition, the sapphire crystal case back allows a view of the mechanics inside the watch. Finally, the watch can only withstand water pressure up to 30 metres.
The dial of the Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Split-Seconds Chronograph Ultra-Thin is made of platinum, just like the case. In fact, the “Pt950” signature between 4 and 5 o’clock indicates this fact. The dial has a tachymeter scale on the periphery and applied indices in white gold. There is also a small seconds at 9 o’clock and a 60-minute counter on the opposite side. Below this, the manufacture integrates a power reserve indicator. The white gold hands indicate the main time, while the blue hands relate to the chronograph.
The manufacture calibre 3500 movement powers the Traditionnelle Split-Seconds Chronograph. Vacheron Constantin presented this movement in 2015 on the occasion of the 260th anniversary of the manufacture. It consists of 473 individual parts as well as 47 jewels and operates at a frequency of 21,600 vibrations per hour (3 Hz). It also offers automatic winding and a power reserve of 48 hours. The movement measures only 5.2 mm in height, making it one of the slimmest chronographs with split-seconds ever. In order to maintain the slim dimensions, a peripheral oscillating weight made of 22-carat gold was installed and a non-spherical differential was used for the power reserve indicator.
With two column wheels and a horizontal clutch, the manufacture harks back to classic watchmaking. However, Vacheron Constantin also integrates a patented mechanism that prevents the hands of the chronograph from jumping when it is started. In this way, the manufacture compensates for the typical disadvantage of a horizontal clutch and additionally extends the life of the mechanism. Naturally, the watch is finished to the highest standards. There are Geneva stripes, carefully bevelled edges and the Maltese cross on the two column wheels. The watch also bears the extremely strict Geneva seal.
Finally, the watch comes on a dark blue strap made of Mississipiensis alligator leather. The large rectangular scales and the sewn-in silk and platinum threads match the noble impression. A polished folding clasp in the shape of a half Maltese cross in 950 platinum secures the watch on the wrist. The Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Split-Seconds Chronograph Ultra-Thin Collection Excellence Platine costs 315,000 euros and is limited to 15 numbered pieces.
