BASELWORLD 2019: Patek Philippe Calatrava Weekly Calendar Ref. 5212A-001
Patek Philippe has developed a broad spectrum of calendar functions, from the simple aperture date to the extremely complex secular perpetual calendar that is preprogrammed into the 28th century. At this years Baselworld 2019, Patek Philippe introduced a new function for calendar watches: the weekly calendar. The Calatrava Weekly Calendar (Ref. 5212A-001) is a semi-integrated mechanism that in addition to the day of the week and the date also displays the week number. Further, the Reference 5212A-001 is endowed with a totally new self-winding base caliber.
The Calatrava appears with a new face
The new Calatrava Weekly Calendar is equipped with a silvery opaline dial and five hands from the center. The hours and minutes are indicated with Dauphine hands in blackened white gold, which feature two lapped facets. A slender counterbalanced hand tracks the seconds. The day of the week is displayed by a hammer-shaped hand with a red hammer head on a circular scale in the middle of the dial. A second hand delivers week number and month readings on two concentric scales at the periphery of the dial. The date at 3 o’clock complements the calendar indication. Another special feature: The typography created explicitly for this watch is based on the handwriting of one of the manufacture’s designers, recalling an epoch in the not too distant past when notes were still written by hand in paper diaries.
Patek Philippe Calatrava Weekly Calendar Ref. 5212A-001
An elegant case-design
The stainless steel Calatrava case – a rarity at Patek Philippe – also stands out on account of the finesse of the bezel that extends over the two- tiered, gently curved strap lugs. Its design is inspired by the Reference 2512, a one-of-a-kind piece made in 1955 and held in safekeeping by the Patek Philippe Museum. This kinship is emphasized by the reference number of the new Calatrava Weekly Calendar that consists of the same numerals in a different order. The vintage aspect is amplified by a box-type sapphire-crystal glass with a slightly cambered profile. The stainless steel snap back has a sapphire-crystal inset that allows the movement to be observed at work.
Patek Philippe Calatrava Weekly Calendar Ref. 5212A-001
A partially integrated weekly calendar
To display the day of the week and the number of the current week, Patek Philippe developed a totally new semi-integrated mechanism with a height of 1.52 mm, containing 92 additional parts. Thanks to a special plate developed and produced for this specific mechanism, the movement remains very svelte. A 7-point star on the hour wheel in the center of the movement controls the day-of-week display. Via a lever, a second 7-point star with an extended Sunday tip drives the 53-tooth week wheel. Corrections of the day-of-week and week-number displays are performed with two push pieces recessed in the case flank at 8 and 10 o’clock. The date can be corrected with the crown pulled halfway out. The 53-graduation scale considers years with an extra week. This is the case every 5 to 6 years. The next occurrence falls in 2020.
Patek Philippe Calatrava Weekly Calendar Ref. 5212A-001 – The Movement
A totally new base caliber
The weekly calendar mechanism is not the only special feature of the Reference 5212. Patek Philippe also endowed this watch model with a totally new movement based on the self-winding caliber 324. The new movement sports several innovations and optimizations that improve its performance and dependability. The first innovation concerns the center second. To prevent the seconds hand from vibrating and to eliminate friction, the manufacture’s engineers decided against the habitual center second pinion with friction spring. They replaced it with an innovative system based on an anti-backlash third wheel. Friction is further reduced by suspending the pivots of the seconds-hand arbor between bearing jewels. The stop seconds (balance stop) mechanism provides further optimization: it becomes effective when the crown is pulled into the handsetting position. Thanks to this device, the user can set the time with one-second accuracy. When the crown is pushed home, the mechanism kick-starts the balance, so to speak, to set it in motion again. The self-winding mechanism was also completely reworked and refined.
Patek Philippe Calatrava Weekly Calendar Ref. 5212A-001 – Caseback
The sapphire-crystal case back of the new Reference 5212A-001 Calatrava Weekly Calendar reveals the movement of the new model.
On the occasion of the manufacture’s 175thjubilee Patek Philippe presented some new models. The star among those: The Grandmaster Chime. A version with a white gold case and a black and white dial became part of the collection in 2016 already. Now the brand introduced another white gold model with two blue opaline dials: The Grandmaster Chime…
Two new sizes, radiant mother-of-pearl dials, lab-grown diamonds, and actress Charlize Theron heading the new campaign: say hello to the new Breitling Navitimer 32 and 36 mm. A whole army of the manufacture's most popular and iconic pilot's watch are joining the collection in a range of new designs, from red-gold and steel to two-tone…
Together with its long-time ambassador Giannis Antetokounmpo, Breitling has introduced a special edition of the Chronomat. Inspired by the athlete's impressive journey from the basketball courts of Athens to the NBA, two watches immortalise the basketball star's personality and style. These watches are available in two versions: the Chronomat GMT with a 40 mm steel…
In celebration of its tenth anniversary, Laurent Ferrier is introducing a new, classical timepiece – the Classic Origin Opaline. Housed in a Grade 5 titanium case, it follows a pure design code, featuring an uncluttered white-silver opaline dial and a light brown Barbialla calf leather strap. According to the brand, the latest model is designed…
At the Salon Internacional Alta Relojería in Mexico, Panerai has unveiled a new version of the Luminor Quaranta. The Panerai Luminor Quaranta Carbotech PAM01526 will be presented to the public for the first time, showcasing a smaller case and a bold design with attractive materials. Case The case of the Panerai Luminor Quaranta Carbotech PAM01526…
For more than one year Richard Mille supports the Alfa Romeo Racing Team. Since 2018 the Formula 1 world champion Kimi Räikkönen is also part of this team. In the occasion of the Singapore Grand Prix the brand now introduces the RM 50-04 Tourbillon Split-Seconds Chronograph Kimi Räikkönen. Richard Mille RM50-04 Tourbillon Split-Seconds Chronograph Kimi Räikkönen…
Earlier in June, we saw the unmistakable return of one of Italy’s most famous automobile events: La Mille Miglia, otherwise known as 1000 Miglia, or 1000 miles. Once described by Enzo Ferrari as “the most beautiful race in the world”, it is a 1,000-mile open-road race through Italy’s finest towns and cities in period classic…
Tudor expands the Black Bay Chrono collection with a new model featuring a "Flamingo Blue" dial. This Chrono combines the brand's dive watch heritage with motorsport elements, showcasing a 41mm stainless steel case, a reliable chronograph movement, and the iconic "Snowflake" hands. The watch comes with a five-link bracelet and a tachymetric bezel, emphasizing its…
Panerai presents its new Submersible Bronzo in a stand-alone collection. It has a limited production of 1.000 units per year, but is no longer a 'special edition'. It means that Panerai keeps the flexibility to continue its production in the years after. This will especially please many Panerai fans because previous models have always been limited to 1.000 pieces within a…
With its new model the watch manufacture Breguet ties in with a line of ultrathin previous models. As well the new Breguet Classique Tourbillon Extra-Plat Squelette 5395 (Ref. 5395BR/1S/9WU) is equipped with the only 3 mm high calibre 581 made of 18-karat gold including a tourbillon. By skeletonizing the movement the manufacture now makes the mechanical system of…
When Breguet debuted the Breguet Marine Tourbillon Équation Marchante 5887, they wove together some threads from its history. The Tourbillon was invented and patented by founder Abraham-Louis Breguet in 1801. The Marine 5887 is not only equipped with a tourbillon of the newest generation, but also a perpetual calendar and an equation of time. The…
The Montblanc 1858 Geosphere Limited Edition 1858 is a brand new model from the Le Locle- and Villeret-based horology house. Despite its Swiss heritage, the timepiece takes its inspiration from the colours of the Gobi desert. With only 1858 pieces available, the complicated watch's functions include turning northern and southern hemisphere globes, as well as…
Gerald Charles marks two milestones with the Maestro GC19 Becker Anniversary Edition—a striking, violet-coloured limited edition of just 20 pieces. This watch celebrates both the 150th anniversary of Hamburg-based Juwelier Becker and the 25th anniversary of the Gerald Charles watch brand. As a collaborative project with Juwelier Becker, which introduced Gerald Charles to its collection…