Daniel Roth is a name that resonates with watch enthusiasts and collectors alike. The brand, founded by the eponymous watchmaker in 1988, is known for its unique double-ellipse cases and high-quality timepieces. After a long hiatus, the brand has made a comeback with new models, developed in collaboration with La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton. The new Daniel Roth Extra Plat Souscription is a tribute to the original model from 1990. The watch features an ultra-thin case, a hand-made guilloche dial, and a new movement. In this article, we take a closer look at this watch and its features.
The case of the Daniel Roth Extra Plat Souscription is made of 18k yellow gold and measures 38.6 x 35.5 mm. The case is only 7.70 mm thick. The design follows the iconic double-ellipse shape, but with a centred godron for a balanced profile. The lugs are slightly rounded and curved downwards for better ergonomics. Each lug is a separate component, soldered to the case middle by hand. The craftsmanship is evident in the traditional methods used to assemble the case. The solid case back adds to the historical reference, as the original Extra Plat watches also had solid backs. The water resistance of the watch is 30 meters.
The dial of the Daniel Roth Extra Plat Souscription is made of solid 18k yellow gold and features a hand-made clou de Paris guilloche pattern. The dial consists of two parts: the base and an applied chapter ring, both of which are engine turned by hand in La Fabrique du Temps’s own guilloche workshop. The process takes 10 hours of work per dial. The print on the dial is in a deep blue that matches the heat-blued hour and minute hands. The Roman numerals on the dial add to the classic aesthetic of the watch. The simplicity of the dial, with just two hands and no additional complications, reflects the functional elegance that Daniel Roth values in watchmaking.
The Daniel Roth is powered by the new DR002 movement, developed by La Fabrique du Temps. The movement is a form movement, taking the same double ellipse shape as the case. Despite its unconventional shape, the movement features traditional high-end watchmaking details, such as rounded, polished bevels and a steel winding bar click for the barrel. The balance wheel is free-sprung and made up of four arms with weights for regulation. The single large mainspring provides a power reserve of 65 hours. The movement was assembled at La Fabrique du Temps under the supervision of Michel Navas and Enrico Barbasini. The solid 18k yellow gold case back conceals the beauty of the movement, a nod to the past when the original Extra Plat watches also had solid backs.
The Daniel Roth Extra Plat Souscription comes with a grey calfskin leather strap. The strap is 20 mm wide at the lugs and tapers towards the buckle. The leather is of high quality and adds to the overall elegance of the watch. The watch is equipped with a pin buckle made of 18k yellow gold, ensuring a secure fit on the wrist.
The Daniel Roth Extra Plat Souscription is a limited edition of 20 pieces. The price of the watch is not publicly disclosed, but interested buyers should expect a price in the upper range of haute horlogerie.
