240 years ago, Abrahm-Louis Breguet created the first pocket watches with minute repeaters, whose mechanism is based on a mainspring instead of chimes. Today, his invention from 1783 is continuing to resound in the case of the new Breguet Classique 7637 Répétition Minutes. The timepiece is available in two versions: in rose gold with a black dial or in white gold with a midnight blue dial.
The fluted case of the Breguet Classique 7637 Répétition Minutes in 18-carat rose gold or white gold provides a refined, simple home for the grand complication that nestles inside it. It measures 42 mm in diameter and has a height of 12.25 mm. On the front, the grand feu enamel dial is protected with sapphire crystal, while the open caseback reveals the artfully designed movement. In addition, a guilloche with a wave motif adorns the rose-gold case back, into which the sapphire crystal is set. To activate the minute repeater mechanism, the user can operate a latch on the left side of the middle section of the case at 9 o’clock.
On the dial of the black or midnight blue Breguet Classique 7637 Répétition Minutes, the Breguet hands with open-worked pomme tips indicate the hours and minutes. These are marked with the recognisable Breguet (Arabic) numerals in a powdery silver tone. Typical of Breguet, small stars adorn the minutes and stylised lilies the 5-minute display. In a matching colour, the Breguet logo also gleams in silver.
The clean dial in black or midnight blue holds the key to an elaborate process: grand feu enamel. This process uses a colour powder consisting of ground silicon dioxide and oxides, which is applied to the dial after being dissolved in water. The reason why grand feu enamel is so complex is that after each layer of colour has been applied, a firing process must be initiated in the kiln at over 800°C for a set period of time. It can take up to several weeks to obtain the desired colour shade.
The Breguet Classique 7637 Répétition Minutes features the mechanical movement calibre 567.2 with manual winding and a power reserve of 40 hours. Through the sapphire crystal caseback, owners of the timepiece can observe how the movement, with its ornamental decorations, oscillates at a frequency of 2.5 Hz. Now we come to the acoustic heart of the movement.
Pocket watches with minute repeaters have been around since the 17th century, when the mechanism helped to tell the time even after nightfall. The striking mechanism that is used to produce the tones serves as a supplement to the movement and counts amongst horology’s ‘grand complications’. The acoustic time indication is reproduced with the aid of hammers and sound springs. In the Breguet Classique 7637 Répétition Minutes, the repeater striking mechanism is hand-decorated. The hammers are made of highly polished steel, while the mainsprings and the case are gold. Instead of the plate, the mainsprings are attached to the middle part of the case. The fact that these two components are made of the same material and have the same acoustic impedance ensures a harmonious and rich sound transmission and quality. This is why Breguet has also applied for a patent for this.
Even at the time when the minute repeater was created, there was a separate tone for each unit of time (hour, quarter of an hour, minute). Today, when designing minute repeaters, an acoustician is consulted to determine the timbre harmonically and melodically after mounting the percussion. To do this, he selects a melody that best matches the Breguet sound signature. As each Breguet Classique 7637 Répétition Minutes is handmade, there may be minimal variations in acoustics from piece to piece. Thus, the pieces of this model differ slightly, which adds even more to their uniqueness.
The alligator leather strap accompanying the duo of watches match to the dial, in black for the rose-gold version or in midnight-blue for the white-gold case. A gold trefoil folding clasp with the Breguet monogram completes the look. Last but not least, the timepiece can be purchased for 262,300 euros.
