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Watches & Wonders 2023: Cartier Tank Américaine and Tank Louis Cartier

Watches & Wonders 2023: Cartier Tank Américaine and Tank Louis Cartier


In addition to the new Tank Normale introduced into Cartier’s Privé series for collectors, the maison is also offering a number of new mechanical Tank watches for the general public. This includes the introduction of two Américaine models, alongside four Louis Cartier timepieces with distinctive and colourful dials.

Tank Américaine

Drawing inspiration from the original Tank Cintrée from 1921, the Tank Américaine was launched in 1989, with the latter featuring the former’s distinctive curved case. The Tank Américaine, however, integrated an important new feature: the first adjustable strap alongside the brand’s famous folding buckle, patented back in 1910.

The case

Now, the new Tank Américaine models are keeping up with the times by further refining the curved case and creating a finer, more ‘acrobatic’ line. Housed in either a steel or rose-gold case, these timepieces feature a dainty faceted crown endowed Cartier’s distintinctive synthetic blue spinel. Stretching far across the average wrist, the Tank Américaine‘s case dimensions are 44.4 mm x 24.4 mm, while maintaining an elegant height of 8.6 mm. In addition, the case provides water-resistance to 30 m.

The dial

With purism at the forefront of the design, the watches’ silvered satin-brushed dials display hour and minutes with the help of blued-steel sword-shaped hands. Elongated Roman numerals, which condense closer together in the mid-section of the dial, serve as elegant yet avant-garde hour markers. Inside these hour markers, a railway minute track stretches across the dial.

Cartier Calibre 1899 MC

Powering the Tank Américaine models is the new calibre 1899 MC, specifically designed for slimmer cases such as this. Named after Cartier’s opening year of its historic 13 rue de la Paix boutique, this new movement is destined to only be put to use in the Tank Américaine.

Measuring only 9 mm wide and 3.63 mm in height, the automatic calibre 1899 has a 38-hour power reserve and a frequency of 4 Hz. Consisting of 158 components and 24 rubies, Cartier decorate the petite new calibre with Côte de Genève – although this remains out of sight due to the solid caseback.

Strap and price

Last but not least, Cartier pair the stainless-steel Tank Américaine with a dark blue alligator-skin strap. By contrast, the rose-gold edition comes with a grey strap in the same material. Prices: tbc.

Tank Louis Cartier

Tank Louis Cartier

Simplicity is key when it comes to the Tank Louis Cartier. This 1921 rework of the Tank Normale is defined by its pure lines and minimalist dials. However, the focus on simplicity does not limit the possibilities of design but rather offers the frame for a distinctive look. This year’s collection sees the introduction of four new models.

The case

With an elongated shape, softened edges, and a beaded crown set with sapphire cabochon, three of the new Tank Louis Cartier models have a polished yellow-gold case, while the remaining version is in rose gold. The versatile timepieces each have case dimensions of 33.7 mm x 25.5 mm and are water-resistant up to 30 m. 

The dial

The simplicity of the Tank Louis Cartier is emphasised through the dials that come without Roman numerals or railway minute tracks. In this collection, purism is represented by geometric patterns as well as all-chromatic designs. While two of the four models are a nod to the Tank Must dials of the 1970s with their optical grids consisting of various gold-hued squares, the dials of the other two editions match with their straps in burgundy or all-green lacquer. Three of them have sword-shaped hands made out of gold-plated steel to indicate the hours and minutes. Meanwhile, the rose-gold version features rose-gold plated steel hands.

The calibre

The 1917 MC movement with manual winding is at the heart of the Tank LC. Notably, this calibre appears only in the Tank Louis Cartier and the Tank Asymmetrique. Although not visible to the wearer, Cartier nevertheless adorns the movement with 19 jewels, as well as traditional Côtes de Genève and perlage decoration. Additionally, the calibre has a 38-hour power reserve and beats at a frequency of 3 Hz.

The strap and price 

Last but not least, all four watches come with an alligator-skin strap. While the model with the smaller optical-grid pattern and yellow-gold case comes with a taupe grey strap, Cartier pair the sole rose-gold model with a dark blue strap. A bordeaux or a green strap encompass the monochromatic editions with dials of the same color. Prices: the two plain green and burgundy dials are 14,000 euros, while the versions with geometric dials are 14,300 euros.