Tudor‘s new model shows off a part of the brand’s history, that has only been firmly known until now. The Black Bay P01 (Ref. 70150), which was introduced for the first time on the watch fair Baselworld 2019, is inspired by a prototype from the late 1960’s and has been proposed the US Navy.
The Swiss watch manufacture already provided the US-American marine with professional diving watches in the 1950’s. In 1967 the brand developed a technical model to replace the Oyster Prince Submariner 7928 reference, which was standard-issue at that time. Therefore they had to meet a set of specifications decreed by the American government: Tudor incorporated latest results of the research into functionality and ergonomics, developed a prototype and patented a function unknown till then. Unfortunately this project with the codename ‘Commando’ was never realized. Instead the US Navy chose another standard model – the Reference 7016, which replaced Reference 7928 in the Tudor catalogue.
Tudor Black Bay P01 Ref. 70150
But now the brand presents a model, which is inspired by one of the prototypes developed for this study and kept in Tudor’s archives for decades: the Black Bay P01– which stands for prototype 1. This way 50 years later the model is brought back to life and mass-produced for the first time.
The prototype spirit
The Black Bay P01 is contemporary sporty, but at the same time the model adopts the principle of the winding crown at 4 o’clock and the prominent end-links of the 1960s model. This way the Black Bay P01 reflects the exploratory nature of the project, a cross between a divers’ watch and a navigator’s watch. The hinged end-link system on the period prototype was the subject of a patent in 1968, which covered a locking and disassembling system for the bezel to aid maintenance of the watch. The Black Bay P01 model does not literally reproduce this mechanism but borrows liberally from it, providing a stop system for the bidirectional rotating bezel via a mobile end-link at 12 o’clock.The new model features hours, minutes, seconds and date functions and is is fitted with a domed matt-black dial with painted luminescent hour markers. The matt stain-brushed case is as well based on the design of the prototype. The Black Bay P01 is water resistant to a depth of 200 meters.
Tudor Black Bay P01 Ref. 70150
The manufacture calibre MT5612
The Black Bay P01 is driven by the manufacture calibre MT5612, which has been officially certified as a chronometer by the Swiss institute Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronomètres (COSC). Its openwork rotor is satin-brushed with sand-blasted details, and its bridges and plate have alternating polished sand-blasted surfaces and laser decorations. Special focus was laid on robustness and longevity to create a reliable and long living companion for the owner of the watch. In developing the variable inertia balance these characteristics played a central role as well: It is maintained by a sturdy traversing bridge fixed in two-points. Other than that the Black Bay P01 has a non-magnetic silicon balance spring and guarantees a power reserve of approximately 70 hours.
Tudor Black Bay P01 Ref. 70150
A hybrid leather and rubber strap
The strap especially developed for the Black Bay P01 model is a rubber base with “snowflake” motif on the back, finished with a brown leather trim. In the spirit of the period prototype, mobile satin-brushed steel attachments connect the strap to the watch case.
Tudor Black Bay P01 Ref. 70150
The essence of ‘Black Bay’
Like other models in the ‘Black Bay line’, the Black Bay P01 model features a dial inspired by the Tudor divers’ watches produced in the 1950’s. It also adopts the characteristic angular hands known to collectors as “snowflake” that appeared in the brand’s 1969 catalogue. Finally, the unprotected winding crown, like the holes drilled across the horns, are typical features of the first generations of the brand’s divers’ watches.
Hybrid leather and rubber strap with folding clasp and safety catch, entirely satin-finished
CALIBRE:
Calibre MT5612 (COSC)
MECHANISM:
Self-winding mechanical movement with bidirectional rotor system
POWER RESERVE:
70 hours
FUNCTIONS:
Central hour, minute and second hands, stop seconds for precise time setting Instantaneous date at 3 o’clock with rapid adjustment without non-correction range Water resistance: 200 m
At this years Baselword 2019, Rolex has introduced a new version of the Oyster Perpetual Datejust 36 ref. M126234 in white Rolesor (combining Oystersteel and 18 ct white gold). Rolex’s classical wristwatch with 36 mm case has a refined, black sunray-finish dial and fluted bezel. It is equipped with calibre 3235, first introduced on this model in…
In 2022, Parmigiani Fleurier introduced the Tonda PF GMT Rattrapante, a GMT watch featuring a rattrapante mechanism that allows the local time to be adjusted with a single press. Now, to mark Watches and Wonders 2025, the brand is launching a new version: the Tonda PF GMT Rattrapante Verzasca. Its Verzasca Green dial is inspired…
Panerai continues its love for experimentation by introducing a new interpretation of their ‘Luminor Marina’ with an ultra-light Carbotech case. Furthermore, the new Luminor Marina Carbotech – 44 mm is equipped with a Sandwich dial with blue Super-LumiNova markings. The high-performance composite material was developed by Panerai’s creative lab ‘Laboratorio di Idee’ and for the…
Independent watchmaker Frederique Constant has revived its Highlife collection from 20 years ago with the introduction of Frederique Constant Highlife Automatic COSC. It is a certified chronometer thanks to its certification from the Swiss Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronomètres (COSC). It offers the same bracelet changing system as the other two innovations, the Highlife Perpetual…
When Breguet debuted the Breguet Marine Tourbillon Équation Marchante 5887, they wove together some threads from its history. The Tourbillon was invented and patented by founder Abraham-Louis Breguet in 1801. The Marine 5887 is not only equipped with a tourbillon of the newest generation, but also a perpetual calendar and an equation of time. The…
When it was launched in 2022, the Square Bang collection introduced a bold new design language to the Big Bang family, bringing with it a square case as a more assertive alternative. With the Square Bang Tourbillon 4-Day Power Reserve, Hublot now adds a technically ambitious model to the line – one that, for the…
In line with its CEO's current focus on “hyper horology”, watch brand Roger Dubuis is introducing a new Excalibur Double Flying Tourbillon model. The model aims to optimise all of its components in order to match with its wearers' lifestyle, from design and performance to wearability. For this reason, it features a reinvented flying tourbillon,…
Atelier Greubel Forsey is presenting the third edition of the GMT Earth. While the two predecessors were still made of precious metals, this new version has a titanium case. It features a rotating globe that immediately shows the wearer which hemisphere is in the daytime and which is at night. In addition, the manufacture has…
If you think the watch and the concept of a limited customer base sound familiar, you're right – at least almost. To mark the 40th anniversary of The Cartier Collection – a collection of jewellery, watches and accessories launched in 1973 that exemplifies the brand's style – the Tank Louis Cartier Platinum Limited Edition was…
The TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph x Porsche 963 celebrates the connection between the two brands and motorsport. The watch is inspired by the Porsche 963, a hybrid sports car renowned in the motorsport world for its performance and technology. This shows in the design elements of the watch, which echo the race car's aesthetics. For…
Jaquet Droz is introducing the Grande Seconde Quantième 41 mm. Seven variations of the new watch are available: four of the editions have an 18-carat red-gold case with grand feu enamel dials in anthracite, ivory, burgundy, or deep blue. Meanwhile, the other three editions are housed in a stainless-steel case and showcase a sandblasted titanium grey,…
Roger Dubuis presents the Knights of the Round Table: Omniscient Merlin, an homage to the mythical wizard from Arthurian legends. With intricate craftsmanship, the watch features a dial inspired by the Giant’s Causeway in Northern Ireland, showcasing hexagonal towers as well as the 12 micro-sculpted knights. This timepiece is a limited edition of 28 pieces,…
Having covered the enduringly popular Cartier Santos extensively, today certainly marks an exciting day as the world-famous French maison introduces a number of new models to its portfolio. This includes several exciting Santos de Cartier and Santos Dumont novelties, which are taking central stage this year in the form of new colour palettes – and…