The Montblanc Star Legacy Nicolas Rieussec Limited Edition 100 in Rose Gold

The Montblanc Star Legacy Nicolas Rieussec Chronograph Limited Edition 100, reference 137545, retains the characteristic layout with an off-centre time display and two rotating chronograph discs. New features include the rose gold case and historical motifs that glow in the dark on the dial. The automatic in-house calibre MB R200 remains unchanged. The differences from previous versions relate to the material, the dial and the limited edition run of 100 pieces.

Nicolas Rieussec and the ink chronograph of 1821

On 1 September 1821, the French watchmaker Nicolas Rieussec used a timekeeping device that was completely novel for its time at a horse race on the Champ de Mars in Paris. Rieussec, who served as watchmaker to the King of France, intended to use it to record the finishing times of the individual horses.

Its design worked in a completely different way to a modern chronograph. Two discs rotated beneath a fixed ink nib. When triggered, this fine nib applied a dot of ink to the relevant disc. Its position could then be used to determine the exact moment at which a horse had crossed the finish line.

A few weeks later, the device was presented to the Paris Academy of Sciences. The term ‘chronograph’ was derived from the Greek words ‘chronos’, meaning ‘time’, and ‘graphein’, meaning ‘to write’ or ‘to record’. Rieussec’s design is therefore regarded as the first ink chronograph and as one of the earliest officially recognised devices of its kind.

You can find out more about the collection paying tribute to Nicolas Rieussec here in our article.

What is actually new about the Limited Edition 100

The basic technical and aesthetic principles of the Nicolas Rieussec have been in place since 2008. Its defining features are the off-centre time display, the two rotating chronograph discs and a fixed bridge situated between them. 

Reference 137545 is therefore not a fundamentally redesigned Nicolas Rieussec. What is new is the specific combination of features: a fully polished 750 rose gold case, a black dial with luminous archival motifs, several references to Paris in 1821, and a limited edition of 100 pieces.

It is thus the watch’s design, above all, that sets it apart from earlier versions. This is an important distinction, as the elaborate design may initially give the impression of a more comprehensive technical redesign. In fact, the mechanical architecture remains largely familiar.

Illuminated archive motifs on the dial

In normal light, the black dial displays the model range’s characteristic layout. The hours and minutes are shown on an offset sub-dial with rose gold-plated leaf-shaped hands. A skeletonised hand indicates a second, independently adjustable time zone. There is also a day/night indicator at 9 o’clock and a date window at 6 o’clock.

Below the time display are two domed, rotating discs. The left-hand disc at 8 o’clock counts 60 seconds, whilst the right-hand disc at 4 o’clock counts 30 minutes. A horizontal bridge made of blued steel serves as a fixed reference point for both. Whilst in a conventional chronograph the hands move across fixed scales, here the scales rotate beneath the hour markers. This reversal transposes the functioning of Rieussec’s original apparatus onto a wristwatch.

However, what truly sets this edition apart from previous versions only becomes apparent in the dark. Then, in the background of the displays on the dial, handwritten passages from historical documents, the silhouette of the Paris Academy of Sciences, a technical drawing of the ink hand and Nicolas Rieussec’s signature appear. In daylight, the motifs remain comparatively discreet in the background, whilst in the absence of ambient light they create an additional layer.

On the rehaut, inscriptions such as ‘Compteur de Mr Rieussec’ and ‘Paris, le 15 Octobre 1821’ continue the historical reference to Rieussec’s original device.

The design of the Star Legacy Nicolas Rieussec Limited Edition 100

The polished rose gold case measures 43 millimetres in diameter and 15.01 millimetres in height. This makes the watch significantly larger and thicker than a classic dress watch. Whilst the stepped lugs, the onion-shaped crown and the domed sapphire crystal have a traditional look, they do nothing to diminish the watch’s striking presence on the wrist.

The single chronograph pusher is positioned at 8 o’clock. It is used to start, stop and reset the chronograph in sequence. The watch is water-resistant to 50 metres. The domed sapphire crystal has an anti-reflective coating on both sides, and the sapphire crystal case back also offers a view of the movement.

The black calfskin strap also echoes the watch’s history. Its shape, which tapers towards the tip, is fundamentally inspired by a quill pen and is intended to evoke Rieussec’s ink-filled hands. A map of Paris from 1821 is depicted on the underside of the strap. Among other landmarks, the Seine, Notre-Dame, the Champ de Mars, the École Militaire and two workshop addresses associated with Rieussec are recognisable. The strap features a rose gold butterfly clasp with a black-coated buckle.

The MB R200 in-house calibre

At its heart beats the Montblanc in-house automatic calibre MB R200. The R calibre family played a key role in the debut of the Nicolas Rieussec in 2008, as it marked Montblanc’s entry into the development of its own chronograph movements.

The MB R200 controls the chronograph’s start, stop and reset functions via a column wheel. In addition, a vertical clutch connects the chronograph to the main movement, thereby reducing the risk of a visible jump when the time measurement is started.

The two mainsprings provide a power reserve of around 72 hours. The movement comprises 319 components, features 40 jewels and operates at 28,800 vibrations per hour, or 4 hertz.

Through the case back, one can see rhodium-plated bridges with Côtes de Genève, blued screws and the skeletonised rotor. The latter bears the Montblanc emblem and a grain d’orge finish. The fully assembled watch also undergoes the 500-hour Montblanc Laboratory Test, which checks, amongst other things, timekeeping accuracy, water resistance and functionality.

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